The following flow of construction photos includes construction details that had to be finished in steps before other details could be completed. So the photos are not in exact sequence, but close.

Jerry mocks up the folding mast system in wood. We then blueprint his mockup and send it out to be built at our stainless steel shop.

We are installing teak shelves, defining areas with teak bulkheads bonded in place. The interior starts to take shape.

We mock up the boomkin with PCV pipe. We decide to make the entire boomkin in stainless steel tubing. We like the idea of being able to climb on the boomkin and we have a pad built for a future windvane steering system. After we mock it up we drive it over to our Rail shop for fabrication.

Here we install ceiling strips on the side of the interior hull. (the ceiling in a boat is the side of the hull. The area above your head is called the overhead). To do this we install vertical 3/4 inch plywood battens that are fiberglassed and bonded to the bare hull. Then, using stainless steel screws we install the horizontal sugar pine strips. These screws go into the vertical wood and never touch the hull. It's a very time consuming job because every batten has to be hand fitted, without gaps, using a plane. The result is a beautiful interior that is moisture free, warm, and much quieter.

Here we are trying to determine the angle of the engine as it will sit in the boat. This photo has the engine pulled back from where it is intended to be mounted. As we cut more material off the wooden mock up, we get the engine in the perfect location.

Here Jerry is building the rudder assembly. The laminated tiller in the foreground has already been finished. (this guy Jerry really knows what he's doing)

Heres my beautiful daughter Holly holding the rudder. Notice how tall and strong the rudder is. This rudder will really help the 23 cutter go to weather. It is retractable when the boat is in thin water. Very well built.

Holly helps out varnishing the ceiling strips. Thanks!

Rudder is installed and green sheer and boot stripes are finished. The rudder is held on with stainless steel fittings that have large back-up plates, stainless bolts with aircraft locknuts. Ain't going anywhere.

I align the engine, stuffing box, shaft log and prop shaft. This installation is easy to work on and very simple.

Getting busy with details like woodworking, running wires for the AC and DC system, installing tanks, shelves and the 100's of details it takes to build a prototype boat. Every part we build, we have to make a pattern for. So we end up building the boat twice. But the result of all this work is a boat that can be a production boat.

Slowly, details work themselves out and the interior starts to take shape. Decisions are made and its becoming a boat inside. One big change from our original idea is to expand the galley so one can actually make a sandwich or prepare a meal and have enough counter space. We decide to build a neat pantry below and have a flush mounted Origo 4000 with cutting board built in. This will free up needed counter space for the cook. It also leaves plenty of options for some additional changes that could include some of those teak shelf units you can buy at West Marine. Different needs for each owner can be accomodated.

The stuffing box for the 10 HP Yanmar Diesel with the 18 gallon fuel tank. You can see the wet exhaust hose and the additional storage area just aft of the shaft. (access through an opening cockpit floor hatch!)

The engine with the raw water filter, fuel filter, one of the Group 24 AGM batteries, (one of two installed), you can also see the backside of the forward engine access door. All in all a very neat and clean installation. This engine can be hand started in an emergency. The 18 gallon tank should give the boat a comfortable range of over 600 miles.

The Waterlift Muffler. This is a quiet running engine with a proper loop wet exhaust system. Installation includes proper bronze intake and exhaust thru-hulls.

Still busy, but it all comes together.....

Let's move topsides...
The stainless boomkin arrives and we install it with stainless backing plates, stainless bolts and aircraft locknuts. You can lift the boat with this thing. The rudder fits perfectly in between. The backstay will attach to the boomkin and is part of the cutter rig. We're still waiting for our shop to finish the stainless steel bowsprit—the other end of the boat (and part of the cutter rig)

The stainless stern pulpit is finished! I install it with thru-bolts and it is beautiful and functional. It has welded mounting brackets for a laminated boom gallows. All good cruising boats need a proper boom gallows. The gallows serve 3 functions:

— It allows a singlehander to lock the boom into a notch while he works on reefing the mainsail. This keeps the boom from swinging and hitting or knocking someone overboard. The procedure is to bring the boat into the wind, lower the mainsail slightly and using the mainsheet, lock the boom into one of the notches. Then lower the main to a pre-detemined mark on the main halyard. This mark indicates the mainsail has been lowered enough to tie in the first or second (different color for the second mark) reef. Then after cleating off the main halyard at the mark, go along the boom and tie in the reef. After you've finished, unlock the boom by releasing the mainsheet.

— It looks great!

Here's Holly with the stainless steel bowsprit. It has a proper anchor roller with a hawse pipe built in. It also has all the holes and fittings for the headsail and foresail (cutter rig). It's very strong and should require no maintenance.

We install the stormhood (yes, every cruising boat needs a storm hood). It fits like a glove and will keep water out of the boat if a wave crashes over the bow in a storm. Notice the nifty auto-cam cleats and some of the 5 lewmar winches ($) for reefing and sailing the boat.

We install the beautiful teak caprail around the boat. This takes time but the result is worth it.

More teak work on the stern.

This is the interior of the aft locker that is big enough to hold an inflatable boat. Those access openings you see have removable doors. NO more towing your inflatable! (what your seeing is half the locker! That's a piece of cardboard on the bottom) A normal-sized person could actually get inside this locker and close the seat hatch. Wonderful thing to have on a cruising boat.

Propeller and rudder detail. The skeg is SOLID fiberglass, not hollow or cored. Remember that most of these photos are "under construction" pictures and you will see sawdust, tape, some unfinished areas, etc., in the photos.

A view from the shop floor. She's taking shape.

Here you can see the teak caprail with the 8 feet of genoa track. (1 inch wide on each side of the boat, thru-bolted every 4 inches). Also one of the 5 lewmar winches. The jib sheet winches are self-tailing. Notice the 120-volt shore power plug in (power you'll need for the standard Automatic Battery Charger, Battery Combiner and the hair dryer.)   :-)

Let's go back down below...
Here's the V-berth looking forward. No cushions, trim or lights yet. Kinda nice! (under construction)

This is a photo of the inside area of the forward scuttle hatch. This hatch is structural and very strong. It will bring light into the V-berth area (through the two round bronze ports). It will open from either the front or the back. The teak trim and attention to detail on the interior of the Montgomery 23 will take your breath away (no cushions in these photos).

We're working away on the galley area. The icebox is large and very well insulated. (we used a Nor'Sea 27 box). The icebox has a proper drain. The Origo 4000 is the planned stove. It's flush mounted and very well made.

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