Message 1 of 46

Message 2 of 46

The usual catalogs have a devise called a tiller tamer. It's about $20 and
works quite well. I've used one going to Catalina from Long Beach so I could
make lunch but I quit using it when I found a good used Navico autopilot for
$150. You get what you pay for. There's no comparison. Sandy
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Message 3 of 46

Mac,
Take a peek at tiller tamers. I have one on my Catalina, but have not put
one on the Montgomery yet. They work just fine.
Steve
>Has anyone attached bungi cords to their tiller to keep it straight or pull
>it straight if you take your hand off it to adjust something else. I have
>been thinking of setting up something so when single handing I can let go of
>the tiller for a fue seconds. Maybe, put a couple of small cleats on both
>sides of the boat just for that reason.
>Mac M-15 #380 Beaverton , Or.
>
>
>
>
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Message 9 of 46

In a message dated 08/10/2000 12:23:33 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
haudsley@tranquility.net writes:
<< http://www.mv.com/ipusers/whale/tillerstay/2index.html >>
For several years, I used a tiller tamer and was not very happy with it
because the plastic broke and then the line would jam up in the roller
assembly. I saw this device at the oakland show 2 years ago and felt that it
was far superior due to it's construction and simplicity. As I already owned
an autopilot, I didn't purchase it and have no direct experience.
Sandy
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Message 10 of 46

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Message 13 of 46

THREE STRIKES = SIX STITCHES
Baseball and sailing dont have a lot in common, but this is one case where
three strikes and youre out seems to fit. Its not just one thing that gets
me into trouble. Its when a couple of things come together in an unsuspected
way that real trouble snags me. And there is one other truth I gleaned from
a lot of books written by sailors who also had problems. In sailing, if you
have to be somewhere at a certain time, you are asking for trouble. Being
able to wait for the right combination of wind, weather and tide makes for a
lot of smooth sailing.
For the 00 Chesapeake Rendezvous, my boss relented only at the last minute,
but required me to take my beeper along. Now I am NOT so important that they
couldnt do without me, but I NEVER want my boss to find that out. So I took
my beeper and even turned it on once in a while. It turned out that once in
awhile was too often, for two days into the trip I got a page to call work.
Sure enough I had to return earlier than I had planned. That set the stage
for a series of small things (strikes) that added up to a real problem.
The weather on the third day of the cruise showed up with more vigor than the
second. It rained off and on, and the winds had shifted to the North west,
right on the nose for heading back, and increased to 15 to 20+ knots. The
bay was often a mass of whitecaps.
After a lot of work trying to find an easier way to get back, I decided I had
to cross the bay the next day, especially when Dennis wife, graciously
offered to meet me at Point Lookout and give me a lift to the Solomons to
retrieve my truck and trailer.
With the weather so strong, we wisely put off our planed sail to Smith Island
and took a ferry to Tanzier Island. A good trip but even on the upper deck
of this medium sized ferry some spray occasionally splashing onto the top
deck I was glad I had put off sailing back that day.
The weather the next morning was a repeat of the previous: cloudy and windy.
The forecast stated 15 to 20+ in the morning but should calm down in the
afternoon. I decided to chance it, and after saying goodbye to the cruisers,
motored up the protected channel between Chrisfield and the inner bay. This
saved me from beating into the wind up Tanzier bay and would hopefully give
me a favored tack across Tanzier bay and the Chesapeake. The sun came out
and in that protected channel it warmed up and with no winds to speak of, it
was a pleasant motor of 3 miles. But it was a whole different scene when I
reached the top of the channel. The wind was whistling across the opening,
with white caps covered Tanzier bay. I had put in two reefs in at the dock
after hearing the forecast. It is always easier to do this at the dock and I
figure I can always shake one or both out if I have over estimated the wind.
But I didnt over estimate this one; it was blowing close to 20 on my
hand-held wind gauge. With a working jib up (about 110%) and two reefs I was
on my ear for a second then on my way, tacking across the opening. Thats
when the little things started to add up against me.
Strike one
The first evening of the cruise, I had explored the unmarked channel into the
town of Chance and ran aground. This wasnt as bad as it sounds, for the
bottom was mostly mud, and I sort of oozed to a halt. I quickly lifted the
swing keel and backed off the bank with no problems. No problem that is
until the next day when I found that the keel wouldnt drop. Apparently, when
I cranked it up, a wad of mud came up with it, jamming the board in the
trunk. Over the next two days I tried to shake it free, even pounded on it
(its one of the older iron ones) through the hole for the wire cable pennant,
but it wouldnt budge. So when I tried to work to windward at the head of
Tanzier bay, I didnt have the swing keel down and couldnt quite get enough of
a bite on the wind. I decided to motor sail.
Strike two
I started the Evenrude 8 horse outboard (I know! I know! It is way too much
motor and at 56 lb. is a lot of weight right where I dont need it. But my
wife bought it for me and it is one of the reasons she still sails
occasionally with me). It started on the first pull and provided enough lift
at low throttle that I was making good progress to windward. Then it quit.
The first day we arrived at Chrisfield, the engine had quit there also. Now
this is a very dependable motor, and it bothered me that it was giving me
trouble. I traced the problem to a break in the gas line right were it
connects to the motor. I pulled the connector off, trimmed the line,
(actually I had to unclip the line from the connector, and slice it to get it
off the connector), re-inserted the connector and it ran perfectly. I
thought that the line must been pretty weak for it had been on the motor for
15 years, and I should have gone directly to town and replaced it. However,
I thought it would last until I got home and could buy a replacement hose at
a better price. FUZZY thinking.
Now, out in the wind and waves on the bay, sure enough, there was another
leak in the line in the same location. I decided to fix it.
Strike three
I have an autohelm 1000 on my M17. It really helps on long trips, especially
when there is a lot of motoring. I also use it as a tiller tamer when I need
to leave the helm for a few minutes. On the second day of the cruise, when I
was trying to take videos of the other boats as they arrived at the entrance
to Chrisfield, I had set up the autohelm, thinking it would keep me away from
that one miserable crab pot. However, while taking some video of Bill
sailing his M15 "Storm Petrel" beautifully, tan bark sails full and pulling
like a champ, I happened to glance down and saw I was about to drift right
over the buoy. I grabbed the tiller and pulled it hard over. In doing so, I
avoided the buoy but I also hyper-extended the push rod. From that point on,
the autohelm just made some very expensive sounds without moving the push
rod. I was out of an auto tiller.
OUT! (more like OUCH)
Back in the bay in the wind and waves, I tried to keep the sailboat moving.
In those strong winds it was trying to round up, so I had to keep the tiller
in the crook of one arm, while trying to pull the connector out of the fuel
line. This wouldnt have been a problem if I had the auto tiller, but
Anyway, the connector was tightly fixed in the fuel line, so I cut the line
above the break and worked on getting the connector free. After removing the
clip that held the line to the connector, I had to slice the line to remove
it. As I held the connector and line in my left hand, I started to cut my
with the right, my arm still crooked around the tiller. At exactly the wrong
time, the wind gusted, a big wave hit, and the knife slipped, cutting deep
into the heel of my left palm.
It took some time to stop the bleeding, and a make shift bandage just wouldnt
stay in place. I kept the palm pressed against a towel until the blood
stopped, and tried to keep it there while sailing across the bay. It too six
tacks to get out of Tanzier bay and into Chesapeake bay. That put a lot of
tugging and pulling on the cut. Luckily, the weather forecast was correct
and the farther I sailed into Chesapeake bay the lighter the winds became.
Finally they were so light, I dropped sail and motored the rest of the way
across. I tied up at Point Lookout State Park and asked the campground host
if I could use his phone to call a cab. He took one look at the cut and
drove me to the hospital himself. Two hours and six stitches later, I was
back on the boat for a LONG nights sleep.
Epilogue.
The accident was due to stupidity, as accidents usually are. I shouldnt have
tried to do everything at the same time. I wont use false economy again in
buying needed supplies or parts. And I will be VERY carefully when the
strikes start coming my way again.
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Message 14 of 46

Message 15 of 46

Message 16 of 46

To: montgomery_boats@lists.xmission.com=20
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:51 PM
There has been a lot of conversation lately in the group about self =
steering setups, John Letcher's book on the subject, sail to tiller =
rigging, tiller tamers etc. I have what I believe the ultimate steering =
solution. This auto helm has an uncanny knack for anticipating and =
acting on wind changes, sometimes giving the illusion of operating on =
verbal commands. Its only drawbacks are a tendency to head up a little =
fast in puffs and on occasional to act contrary to, or ignore my input. =
Couldn't ask for a better setup however.
=
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=3D1292324&a=3D9581912&p=3D31572826
Or for a earlier classic view of the same set up.
=
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=3D1292324&a=3D9581912&p=3D31573924
Mike Leonard
M17 #369
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Message 17 of 46

To: montgomery_boats@lists.xmission.com=20
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:51 PM
There has been a lot of conversation lately in the group about self =
steering setups, John Letcher's book on the subject, sail to tiller =
rigging, tiller tamers etc. I have what I believe the ultimate steering =
solution. This auto helm has an uncanny knack for anticipating and =
acting on wind changes, sometimes giving the illusion of operating on =
verbal commands. Its only drawbacks are a tendency to head up a little =
fast in puffs and on occasional to act contrary to, or ignore my input. =
Couldn't ask for a better setup however.
=
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=3D1292324&a=3D9581912&p=3D31572826
Or for a earlier classic view of the same set up.
=
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=3D1292324&a=3D9581912&p=3D31573924
Mike Leonard
M17 #369
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Message 18 of 46

Mark,
Is that the one on the west side of the freway, partially hiden by fir trees?
I must admit to having lusted in my hear.
Steve
>Hey Mike, try again the pictures of Kit didn't come through. By the way,
have you seen the Nor'sea 27 west of I-5 just south of Sutherlin? She's a
beauty!!!
>Mark Dvorscak
>M17 #400
>GRACE
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mikit
> To: montgomery_boats@lists.xmission.com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:51 PM
>
>
> There has been a lot of conversation lately in the group about self
steering setups, John Letcher's book on the subject, sail to tiller rigging,
tiller tamers etc. I have what I believe the ultimate steering solution.
This auto helm has an uncanny knack for anticipating and acting on wind
changes, sometimes giving the illusion of operating on verbal commands. Its
only drawbacks are a tendency to head up a little fast in puffs and on
occasional to act contrary to, or ignore my input. Couldn't ask for a
better setup however.
> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1292324&a=9581912&p=31572826
> Or for a earlier classic view of the same set up.
> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1292324&a=9581912&p=31573924
> Mike Leonard
> M17 #369
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Message 19 of 46

Message 20 of 46

Message 21 of 46

Message-ID: <002701c1b448$194ce7c0$8ddbaec7@default>
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Has anyone put a ^tiller tamer^ on an M17? I'm trying to set mine up for =
single handing so would like to be able to leave the tiller for a brief =
period of time. =20
Tom
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Message 22 of 46

References: <002701c1b448$194ce7c0$8ddbaec7@default>
Message-ID: <3C69F382.E49F4BCE@nmpe.com>
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Thomas,
My M-17 came with one, and i have used it *alot*, mainly when
motoring. I find it works very well. you have to be conscious of the
effect your position has on the attitude of the boat, and hence, its
course. If you shift to port, the boat will slowly veer to starboard
and vice versa (because of longer water line on the lower side, i
suppose). So if you get the tiller-tamer set up neutral with you in the
center of the boat, you can then leave it for an extended period of
time, and steer by your location.
this has allowed me to make a couple cold, ugly 4 hour motoring
passages alot more pleasant by sitting on the edge of the companionway
under an umbrella, just peeking over the cabin top to watch for traffic.
Loyd Myers
M-17#334 ^Whippersnap^
Thomas Wilkinson wrote:
> Has anyone put a ^tiller tamer^ on an M17? I'm trying to set mine up
> for single handing so would like to be able to leave the tiller for a
> brief period of time.Tom
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Thomas,

    My M-17 came with one, and i have used it *alot*,
mainly when motoring.  I find it works very well.  you have to
be conscious of the effect your position has on the attitude of the boat,
and hence, its course.  If you shift to port, the boat will slowly
veer to starboard and vice versa (because of longer water line on the lower
side, i suppose).  So if you get the tiller-tamer set up neutral with
you in the center of the boat, you can then leave it for an extended period
of time, and steer by your location.

    this has allowed me to make a couple cold, ugly
4 hour motoring passages alot more pleasant by sitting on the edge of the
companionway under an umbrella, just peeking over the cabin top to watch
for traffic.

Loyd Myers

M-17#334 ^Whippersnap^

Thomas Wilkinson wrote:

Has
anyone put a ^tiller tamer^ on an M17? I'm trying to set mine up for single
handing so would like to be able to leave the tiller for a brief period
of time.Tom

Message 23 of 46

Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 8:37 PM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com

Has anyone put a ^tiller tamer^ on an M17? I'm trying to set mine up for
single handing so would like to be able to leave the tiller for a brief
period of time.
Tom
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Message 24 of 46

In-Reply-To: <002701c1b448$194ce7c0$8ddbaec7@default>
References: Conversation <002701c1b448$194ce7c0$8ddbaec7@default> with last message <002701c1b448$194ce7c0$8ddbaec7@default>
Message-ID:
Tom,
I can't recommend the Davis brand tiller tamer. BuscaBrisas came
equipped with it and I have since done away with it. (I'd offer to give
it to you if you REALLY wanted it, but I no longer have it...it's been
circularly filed)
One shortcoming of the design is the two plastic ^guides^ that the
line first contacts enroute to the pulley. They break easily; both
were damaged on mine.
Second shortcoming is that it's just too big and clunky looking for all
it does.
Third shortcoming is that the screw-type tensioner is too slow to re-set.
Fourth shortcoming is that it costs too much for all it does.
If it is a commercially built purpose-designed device you must have, ther=
e
is a Canadian stainless version that works on a cam principle. I don't =
have
a link handy, but I know someone who probably does: Rod Brandon
on the Trailer Sailor Bulletin Board.
Personally, I'm now using my sheet-to-tiller bungy cords, one on each sid=
e
to hold the tiller still for a minute.
Good luck whatever route you go,
Tod
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Wed Feb 13 16:28:05 2002

Message 25 of 46

Message-ID:
>I can't recommend the Davis brand tiller tamer
I'm afraid that I have to agree here. I replaced the one on Umiaq once
before giving up on it. Good implementations of the idea do exist, though.
Dolphin has a strong all-metal device that works well, and is strong enough
that if it breaks I'll have other more pressing things to deal with.
Giles Morris
Vancouver 25 ^Dolphin^
Montgomery 15 ^Umiaq^
Sundry small craft
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Wed Feb 13 23:38:13 2002

Message 26 of 46

Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 4:48 AM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
I use a very simple tiller lock on my P-15 that has served me well. It
consists of a long, heavy bungee cord fastened from one stern cleat to the
other, and a jam cleat mounted on the underside of the tiller and about 8^
forward of the bungee. To use, simply pull the bungee up onto the jam cleat
while on course. I've found it easy to micro adjust, and have cruised hands
off for upwards of 10 minutes this way. Considering the greater directional
stability of the M-boats, I think it would work even better for you, and the
price is right!
Steve Tyree, P-15 #2098 ^Amy Ann^
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Tom Smith
LineSoft
Corporation
Phone: 509-928-1707 ext. 248

Fax: 509-928-2581
face=Garamond>E-mail: face=^Times New Roman^>tsmith@linesoft.com
face=Garamond>Website: face=Garamond>www.linesoft.com

size=2>-----Original Message-----
From: IDCLLC@aol.com
[mailto:IDCLLC@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 4:48
AM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Subject: Re:
M_Boats: Tiller tamer

size=2>I use a very simple tiller lock on my P-15 that has served me well.
 It consists of a long, heavy bungee cord fastened from one stern cleat
to the other, and a jam cleat mounted on the underside of the tiller and about
8^ forward of the bungee.  To use, simply pull the bungee up onto the jam
cleat while on course.  I've found it easy to micro adjust, and have
cruised hands off for upwards of 10 minutes this way.  Considering the
greater directional stability of the M-boats, I think it would work even
better for you, and the price is right!

Steve Tyree, P-15 #2098 ^Amy
Ann^

Message 27 of 46

Message-ID: <181.38ed274.299c661f@aol.com>
Tom
Had one on my M-17 and found it very useful...........The 17 is a bit
sensitive to balance though, and the tiller tamer is not an auto-pilot. It
does give you that needed break from hanging on to the tiller when things are
all trimmed up......
Lenny
M-23 # 003
Sea Horse
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Thu Feb 14 02:08:59 2002

Message 28 of 46

In-Reply-To: <20020214020859.3513.qmail@web13306.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID:
Thanks for the link, Russ.....I wasn't familiar with that windvane. On
my old computer I didn't see anything about a tiller tamer but that would=
n't
be the first time. I'll check the site out tomorrow on the work 'puter.
Regarding hatchboards. I was at a lumberyard this afternoon getting some
wood for the self-steering oar and also bought some plywood for new
hatchboards. My present hatchboards are painted on the outside because,
I'm told, the veneer was damaged at some point in its life. They measure
3/8^ thick and look like teak? and are in two pieces. The new plywood =
I
bought is ash, much lighter. (thought I'd try something different; not =
sure how
I'll like it)
I carelessly assumed they were only 1/4^ and that's what I bought, except=
that
it only measures in at 3/16^. This happy little accident of fate means =
that I can
take two thicknesses and laminate them together with the best face on BOT=
H
sides out. (actually, both faces were pretty good, but one is better). =
I plan to
seal them with epoxy and then coat that with varnish.
What I'm wondering is this: should I repeat the arrangement with two hat=
chboards
or....should I go with three and have the third, bottom one with some hol=
ders on
it for gps, radio, etc? I would like a board with holders, but maybe tha=
t should
be a separate piece altogether that I'd take out to button up?
One drawback would be that a lower hatchboard would make it harder for =
my
crewmembers and me, to a much lesser extent, to come and go from the cabi=
n.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tod
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Thu Feb 14 04:08:41 2002

Message 29 of 46

Message-ID:
Todd,
I installed new hatch boards on my M15 and went with three. =
That's the set up now used by the factory. I think it's the same with the =
M17.=20
Regards,
Randy & Greta Watkins
=20
>>> htmills@bright.net 02/13/02 10:03PM >>>
Thanks for the link, Russ.....I wasn't familiar with that windvane. On
my old computer I didn't see anything about a tiller tamer but that =
wouldn't
be the first time. I'll check the site out tomorrow on the work 'puter.
Regarding hatchboards. I was at a lumberyard this afternoon getting some
wood for the self-steering oar and also bought some plywood for new
hatchboards. My present hatchboards are painted on the outside because,
I'm told, the veneer was damaged at some point in its life. They measure
3/8^ thick and look like teak? and are in two pieces. The new plywood I
bought is ash, much lighter. (thought I'd try something different; not =
sure how
I'll like it)
I carelessly assumed they were only 1/4^ and that's what I bought, except =
that
it only measures in at 3/16^. This happy little accident of fate means =
that I can
take two thicknesses and laminate them together with the best face on BOTH
sides out. (actually, both faces were pretty good, but one is better). I =
plan to
seal them with epoxy and then coat that with varnish.
What I'm wondering is this: should I repeat the arrangement with two =
hatchboards
or....should I go with three and have the third, bottom one with some =
holders on
it for gps, radio, etc? I would like a board with holders, but maybe that =
should
be a separate piece altogether that I'd take out to button up?
One drawback would be that a lower hatchboard would make it harder for my
crewmembers and me, to a much lesser extent, to come and go from the =
cabin.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tod
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Thu Feb 14 16:43:37 2002

Message 30 of 46

Message 31 of 46

Message 32 of 46

Please forgive this repeat-I have a new email address, so I need to
update!
I have the following boat for sale. Terry, I do still want to be
included in the mailing. Thanks!
1984 15 foot Montgomery
ivory hull and deck
blue strake
mainsail w/ jiffy reefing
working jib
spinnaker and pole
single handle package
transom mast carrier
cover for mainsail, bag for jib
benching rudder and tiller tamer
1993 Johnson Deluxe 4 horse motor
Minn Kota electric mounted
solar panel for charging batteries
fabric cushions
wind vane
knot stick
auto pilot
radio antenna: no radio
am/fm cassette player
trailer rite trailer
originally owned by John Butler
$4500 anxious to sell!
Holly Schworm
5789 Ruth Lane NW
Massillon, Ohio 44646
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Message 33 of 46

Tom,
I can't recommend the Davis brand tiller tamer. BuscaBrisas came
equipped with it and I have since done away with it. (I'd offer to give
it to you if you REALLY wanted it, but I no longer have it...it's been
circularly filed)
One shortcoming of the design is the two plastic "guides" that the
line first contacts enroute to the pulley. They break easily; both
were damaged on mine.
Second shortcoming is that it's just too big and clunky looking for all
it does.
Third shortcoming is that the screw-type tensioner is too slow to re-set.
Fourth shortcoming is that it costs too much for all it does.
If it is a commercially built purpose-designed device you must have, there
is a Canadian stainless version that works on a cam principle. I don't have
a link handy, but I know someone who probably does: Rod Brandon
on the Trailer Sailor Bulletin Board.
Personally, I'm now using my sheet-to-tiller bungy cords, one on each side
to hold the tiller still for a minute.
Good luck whatever route you go,
Tod

Message 34 of 46

Thanks for the link, Russ.....I wasn't familiar with that windvane. On
my old computer I didn't see anything about a tiller tamer but that wouldn't
be the first time. I'll check the site out tomorrow on the work 'puter.
Regarding hatchboards. I was at a lumberyard this afternoon getting some
wood for the self-steering oar and also bought some plywood for new
hatchboards. My present hatchboards are painted on the outside because,
I'm told, the veneer was damaged at some point in its life. They measure
3/8" thick and look like teak? and are in two pieces. The new plywood I
bought is ash, much lighter. (thought I'd try something different; not sure how
I'll like it)
I carelessly assumed they were only 1/4" and that's what I bought, except that
it only measures in at 3/16". This happy little accident of fate means that I can
take two thicknesses and laminate them together with the best face on BOTH
sides out. (actually, both faces were pretty good, but one is better). I plan to
seal them with epoxy and then coat that with varnish.
What I'm wondering is this: should I repeat the arrangement with two hatchboards
or....should I go with three and have the third, bottom one with some holders on
it for gps, radio, etc? I would like a board with holders, but maybe that should
be a separate piece altogether that I'd take out to button up?
One drawback would be that a lower hatchboard would make it harder for my
crewmembers and me, to a much lesser extent, to come and go from the cabin.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tod

Message 35 of 46

Connie,
Great suggestions. The jib sheet jam cleats were troublesome in light air. They didn't want to "grab" and I was thinking through the prospects for improvement. Cam cleats would be much better.
Jam cleats and a line around the tiller is a good alternative to a more expensive and more complex "tiller tamer". Do you use a tiller extension or the J 24 tiller I have heard mentioned? I like the stock tiller because it is small and out of the way but I can't sit all the way forward. Seems like the tiller extension would be better because it's there when it need to be and stowed other times.
Thanks for the ideas. Any comments on larger headsails and spinnaker?
Jesse
----- Original Message -----
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 8:28 AM
Hi Jesse,
Yep, it's love all right! .........and it only gets better as you get more familiar with your new boat.
I presume that you have the original jam cleats on the cabin roof for the jib sheets.
The first thing I did was change those out for cam cleats, so that if I want an instant jib sheet release (unexpected gusts) all I have to do is yank up on the jib sheet and it is free to run.
With the jam cleats, you have to fight with the force on the sheet - equal and opposite direction - to finally get it released from the jam cleat.
~~~~~~~~~~
I added some small jam cleat to the top of cockpit coaming : P/S. Then I can put a line around the tiller (or a light bungee cord) and cleat it off in the jam cleat. Then I have a cheap effective self steering: good enough to hold a course while I go below and rummage about for a beer; the radio or a new CD for the SONY pancake CD player (2 AA cells).
This spring's project will be the addition of a motorcycle battery in the forward compartment, with a fuse panel with cigarette plug somewhere in the cabin. Location still not finalized after seeing another such installation.
The purpose is to supply power for my CD player (minimum) and for the GPS, (4 AA cells every few hours), so that I can leave it on all the time and use it as a knot meter, as well as pointing to bikini clad girls lounging on swim floats...........
I used the motorcycle battery because it weighs only about 7 lbs, so removal to take it home for a recharge is no big deal.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My tiller extension is also a worthwhile project.
It does two things:
A) I can sit all the way forward in the cockpit (and get the stern out of the water for better boat speed)
B) It raises the tiller height so that it is not down at your knees; i.e., more comfortable seating and tiller holding position.
Have fun.
Connie

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Message 36 of 46

I read where several of you had converted to the J 24 tiller for your M 15's. What is the length of the tiller?
Also, any suggestions for tiller tamers?
Thanks,
Jesse
M 15 Carolyn J
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Message 37 of 46

Hello Jesse
You might try Bungee chord for a tiller tamer.
I've used this method on my boat. Different chord diameters
effect the stiffness. I have a M17 flushdeck so attachment
is no problem on the perforated toerail.
As for the M15 I'm not familiar with the cockpit area so
I can't offer any help there.
Mark Escovedo
M17 Flushdeck
"Chunky Dory"
----- Original Message -----
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 6:06 PM
I read where several of you had converted to the J 24 tiller for your M 15's. What is the length of the tiller?
Also, any suggestions for tiller tamers?
Thanks,
Jesse
M 15 Carolyn J
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Message 38 of 46

Message 39 of 46

Jesse,
My standard M15 tiller is 33 1/2 inches long and the
J24 tiller I have installed is 48 inches.
The J24 tiller is curved and rises 4 inches higher
than the standard tiller.
The extra 14 inches in length and 4 inches in height
does make for a very comfortable sailing position for
a single hander.
I am not sure I would care for the extra 14 inches
with a crew on board.
Thanks
Doug Kelch
"Seas the Day" M15 #310
--- Jesse Tate wrote:
> I read where several of you had converted to the J
> 24 tiller for your M 15's. What is the length of
> the tiller?
>
> Also, any suggestions for tiller tamers?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jesse
>
> M 15 Carolyn J>
_______________________________________________
>
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>
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Message 40 of 46

Randy:

Reef early!! Practice in light airs. I mark the mainsheet where it will be at the cleat with each reef so I don't have to guess how much to lower the main. I use a tiller tamer. It doesn't take long so going forward shouldn't be too bad if the main is luffing. I'm also using a smaller and heavier jib when I sail in winds over 10 knots. The problem I have with the heave-to method is the chop/waves pounding against the hull tend to make it no better than just staying close hauled. In my opinion, the key is to stay as calm as possible. Reefing in 20 knot winds can be a challange. I once tried reefing in heavy winds with the motor running and it only made it worse. I kept going around in circles. The more I sail the less I rely on the motor.

Rich Cottrell
Really M15


Randy Graves wrote:
Thanks everyone for the great information! I did search the achieves at www.msog.org and found some great threads. A couple of threads pointed to an article on reefing from Pineapple Sales http://www.sailmaker.com/articles/reefing.htm . The article was good reading, as was the achieves, and your replies. Thank You!
There seems to be 2 schools of thought regarding on what point of sail to reef a small boat. Some prefer to reef on a close reach, other prefer to reef while hove-to. In our M-15 (#407) all our lines are lead aft but, as I sail alone, I still must let go of the tiller in order to reef. I am concerned about letting go of the tiller on a close reach in high winds. Certainly she would fall off-wind or round up? Any thoughts or comments?
The heave-to method would allow me to secure the tiller in a hard-over position and then have both hands free to work the lines. I want to give this method a try next time but will first practice and attempt to perfect heaving-to!
It looks like I made 2 mistakes yesterday while heaving-to. 1- The back winded Jib was not fully flat, I should have sheeted it in tighter. And 2- it sounds like I should have sheeted in the main just a bit. I will give these a try on Monday. From the pictures in the books I was expecting the bow to be apx. into the wind, with a side-to-side wiggle. Yesterday I hove-to on a port tack and the bow settled apx. 30 degrees off-wind to port and no-wiggle. I also seemed to be making more forward headway than I expected, apx. 1.7 - 1.9 knots of forward movement in apx. 15 - 20 knots of wind. Any other thoughts or ideas?
Thanks again,
Randy Graves
M-15 #407
> ATTACHMENT part 2 application/ms-tnef name=winmail.dat _______________________________________________
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Message 41 of 46

Message 42 of 46

Hi Randy,
Well it's about time you quit dragging those fenders around the lake!
;-) Sounds like what you really need is some version of a tiller tamer
system so you can let go of the tiller to take care of things like that
when you need to. There should be lots of ways to do that listed in the
archives.
Larry
On Sun, 7 Sep 2003 08:02:16 -0700 "Randy Graves"
writes:
> Friends,
>
> Does anyone have any good ideas of how to handle the fenders when
> single-handed sailing? For ease and convenience I have been leaving
> them attached while under sail. I would like to come up with a
> handy way to deploy and retrieve without letting the boat get away
> from me in the process, or having them roll around in the cockpit
> all day. Any ideas?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Randy Graves
>
>

Message 43 of 46

Randy:
My storebought fenders rest in the locker under the bunk for those raft-up
occasions. My working fenders are made from red "noodles", those foam tubes
used by swimmers. I found one 4" OD with a 1/2" hole in the middle, cut into
18" long pieces, and ran some 1/4" poly rope through the holes. I used some
3/4" plastic washers at each end with a retaining knot at each end. Made up
four of them and they fit in the cockpit lockers with the mooring lines. The
red color matches my M-15 stripe. I attach them to some SS eyes screwed to
the outside of my teak toerail at 3 ft intervals amidships. They work very
well. My tiller tamer is a homemade plastic jam cleat on the underside of
the tiller connected to a Bungie cord strung across the stern from SS eyes.
One end goes through a hole in a short teak block, around the eye, and back
to another hole in the block. This acts a a tension device.
When I heave to, to raise or lower the sails, I stow, or unstow the fenders.
Fair winds
Don Ludlow M-15 Sweet Dream
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com]
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 8:21 AM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: How to handle fenders when single-handed sailing?
(chbenneck@juno.com)
2. Re: 17 center board (ron and cathryn goodspeed)
3. Re: Blocks (ron and cathryn goodspeed)
4. Re: Do we need a compass anymore? (n9ca)
5. M15's on Lake Coeur d' Alene, ID (GaryM.Hyde)
6. How to handle fenders when single-handed sailing? (Honshells)
7. Re: Do we need a compass anymore? (GaryM.Hyde)
8. RE: Honda 2HP - montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 7, Issue 7
(Ludlow, Don)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
sailing?
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Hi Randy,
When I go out sailing, as soon as I'm out in clear water, I put the boat
on autopilot (my bungee cord to tiller system), and remove the fenders.
My fenders - depending on length of sail, and number of people on board -
have two stowage positions.
If my wife is along, or the grandchildren, fenders go into the port sail
locker, to clean up the cockpit floor area.
If I'm sailing by myself for just an hour or two (and it's pleasant
sailing - no rail under, etc.) I just leave them on the cockpit floor, at
the aft end of the cockpit.
There they are out of the way; but can be reached easily when I head back
in to my slip at the marina.
Connie
------------------------------
Message: 2
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats

Hello Dik, We took our M17 and hung it from the rafters in the shop
using nylon web holddowns and some old wheels nested and tackwelded
together. Blocked up the trailer about 15 inches using a floor jack,
hooked into the aluminum toe rail, dropped and remove the trailer, slide
the stands under the keel and nail/bolt some "wishbone struts" from the
chainplates to the rafters so she wil not tip. Bottom PREP is the worst
part, I think professional soda blasting might be the best way to go-
the rolling is easy.
There must be some clever boater our there who could write instructions
for an NC mill to machine a bronze CB out of flat stock using the latest
NACA foils.
I single handed out of Richmond a ways the other day, first attempt at
single handing in fact, it went well taking one turn around the opposite
winch then behind [the large end] of the jamb cleat then across the cock
pit to the unused cleat on the high side- I need more practice at
switching te sheets and tiller behind my back!
Just two more trips to the Bay before pullout- boohoo.
Ron and Cathryn Goodspeed M17 "hula pie" #025
------------------------------
Message: 3
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats

Hello Dale, Pickup some Davis "Air-Flow" telltales for the jib- they
include a guide to the location of the snatch blocks along the aluminum
toe rails for the best sail shape. We find the Davis "Shroud
Telltales" excellent also. The really trick solution would track with
cars, sheaves and cams on P&S, mounted inboard. Does any one use a
barberhaul for tighter jib sheet angles?
Ron and Cathryn Goodspeed
1974 M17 "hula pie" #025
------------------------------
Message: 4
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

MessageGPS affected by weather? LORAN, for sure, but GPS? I use GPS in
Carpe Ventum (M-17 # 604) , and also in my Formula One racer, and have been
fortunate enough not to have had weather affect it. Maybe it's because I
only fly when the sun is shining;),
----- Original Message -----
To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 1:01 PM
I totally agree with Stephen about the GPS vs. Compass, and use a GPS
constantly on my M15 -- the only thing I'd like to say is this: I know that
there ARE certain weather conditions when a GPS does not work -- and they
happen typically to be exactly the conditions when you may not be able to
navigate by sight. So don't throw the compass away unless you only go out
for short trips in clear weather.
O
~~~~~~~~~_/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Steve McClellan M15 #152 Chicago, IL
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Message: 5
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
In addition to my boat ('Vanilla'), currently on my dock near Conkling
Park near the south end of the lake, I spotted another M15 moored in
the marina. Its name is 'Shrunken Treasure'. Anyone know who it belongs
to? I couldn't find it in the registry.
--Gary Hyde
M15 #235 'Vanilla'
------------------------------
Message: 6
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Randy, I have aluminum toerails on my M17, and I clip fenders to them with
carabiners, clips which seem to be ubiquitous and available anywhere
(including West Marine) these days. The carabiners make the fenders very
easy to deploy and retrieve. --Craig, chonshell@ia4u.net
----- Original Message -----
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 11:02 AM
Friends,
Does anyone have any good ideas of how to handle the fenders when
single-handed sailing? For ease and convenience I have been leaving them
attached while under sail. I would like to come up with a handy way to
deploy and retrieve without letting the boat get away from me in the
process, or having them roll around in the cockpit all day. Any ideas?
Thank you,
Randy Graves
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Message: 7
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats

Steve:
Good point! I use my GPS on my M15 all the time, have it mounted just
inside the cabin so I can see it from the cockpit, and have it plugged
in to my 12 volt system most of the time (though it interferes with the
the FM radio sometimes). I have a Magellan Blazer 12, which cost about
$100 the last time it was available. I have a nice combination mount
and hand-bearing compass too, but I rarely use it.
--Gary Hyde
M15 #235 'Vanilla'
On Sunday, September 7, 2003, at 06:00 AM, Stephen Martin wrote:
> I suppose this will be considered nautical heresy, but here goes:
>
> When my wife and I first started cruising about 5 years ago we were
> careful to calibrate (swing) the compas and make a deviation chart,
> etc.? Mounted next to the compass was our GPS unit.? After all that we
> had read about the importance of the compass it suprised us that in 4
> years of cruising I don't think we ever looked at the compass once.?
> We eventually quit taking the cover off.? On the other hand, the GPS
> was used constantly.
>
> Instead of heading, the GPS gives you your track, which is what you
> really want to know.? Of course, some of the other benefits are that
> it gives you true speed (no need for a knot meter, which only gives
> you relative speed), position, tells you if you're on course, and
> tells you if your anchor is dragging.
>
> I suppose one could argue that the compass is low tech, doesn't
> require batteries, and is more reliable.? But I remember making the
> same argument for holding onto my slide rule.
> I still keep it stowed away somewhere in case the batteries die on my
> calculator.
>
> On our new M15, insead of a compass,?I'm considering either just
> carrying a handheld GPS or possibly mounting one on the bulkhead.? Of
> course, I will still keep a small handheld compass stowed away for the
> day when the batteries die or the satellites fail.? Maybe I will keep
> it with my slide rule.
>
> Steve Martin,? M15 "Cadenza"
>
>

>
> Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra
> Storage._______________________________________________
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Message: 8
Issue 7
To: "'montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com'"

Hi all:
Returning from a sail this Sunday (the first time I got to sail "Sweet
Dream" with a reef in the main - She sailed like a champ with only the
slightest bit of weather helm in the NE 15 Kt wind), as I motored to the
dock my Honda 2 HP 4 cycle ran out of gas (you would think that for a
thousand bucks they could put in a gas gauge). I was pushing it but
singlehanding with the heavy chop, I didn't want to stop and bend over the
transom to pour in gas. I took off the gas cap, letting it dangle to the
side on the retaining chain and reached for the gas can when the gas cap
dropped into the water. The retaining chain came loose. I quickly poured in
a pint of gas, wrapped a plastic baggy around the top of the tank and fired
her up just before drifting into some pilings.
Has anyone else had their Honda gas cap fall off?
Don Ludlow
M-15 # 620 Sweet Dream
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 9:16 AM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to
montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: cloudy compass (John Fleming)
2. Wet core (Honshells)
3. Re: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 7, Issue 3 (Derfsails@aol.com)
4. Re: cloudy compass (Jerry Montgomery)
5. M23 (Honshells)
6. Honda Maintenance Issue (Steve & Diana Parsons)
7. Do we need a compass anymore? (Stephen Martin)
8. Older M17 Mast (Honshells)
9. Re: Honda Maintenance Issue (Wcpritchett@aol.com)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats

Tom,
Don't despair. There is a product that does the job. It's not cheap,
but it works. I believe it can be bought through West Marine. If not
West Marine, then I must have got it from Sporty's, an aviation/pilot
supply catalog. I used it to restore my Saturn bulkhead compass which
was badly scratched, making it almost unusable. After I followed their
directions, it brought the compass back to complete clarity.
The product is called Nuvo-Shine Plastic Polishing Kit. The cost
stamped on on the side of the box is $30. Here are the other particulars:
www: nuvo-shine.com
Address:
Squadra Nuvolari, LLC
255 G Street Suite 250
San Diego, CA 92101
619/544-9450
If the compass lens is not too badly scratched or faded, you can try
three of Meguiar's products, which you may find at auto parts stores, or
once again at West Marine. They are:
Mirror Glaze 18 Clear Plastic Detailer,
17 Clear Plastic Cleaner,
10 Clear Plastic Polish.
I tried these first, and they were unable to work out the deep scratches
on my compass lens, so I had to buy the Nuvo-Shine product.
Hope this helps.
John Fleming
'82 M-17: "Star Cross'd"
Smith, Tom wrote:
> I have a bulkhead mounted compass that's apparently never had a cover
> on it and it hazy. Is there a plastic polishing compound or method
> anyone can recommend that might help?
>
> Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle Sandpoint, Idaho M15-345, Chukar
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 2
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

If I understand the literature correctly, if you use the epoxy-fill approach
you used for your other fittings,
that should solve the problem, whether the core is completely dry in that
spot or not. I've read of people
drilling a series of small holes, then setting up a suction system to leach
out moisture, but it doesn't sound
like your situation is serious enough for such a drastic cure. Your 21-days
in the sun treatment seems as if
it would completely dry the area in question, anyway.
----- Original Message -----
To:
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 8:47 PM
I have an area on the cabin top of my M15 about the size of a silver dollar
that has a wet core. There was a fitting screwed on to the cabin top, and I
removed it and drilled out the hole, and wet wood came out. I drilled about
a half-inch hole, and picked out all that I could get to. Anoyther hole
above and one below were dry. I have left these holes open for about three
weeks now, in the hot sun (about 95 degrees). Is this enough to
sufficiently dry it out? Any ideas on what I might do? I have removed all
of the fittings, drilled out the holes and filled with epoxy, then redrilled
and replaced each fitting. I only found the one spot that was wet. Thanks,
Jon
------------------------------
Message: 3
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Hi Mark,
You may want to talk with Bob Eeg, as the 23 I have purchased from him does
have a bronze center board. We are scheduled to put the mast up and check
the
center board this coming Monday then put it in the water on Tuesday.
Fred Shelley
derfsails@aol.com
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Message: 4
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Tom- Pour some beer on it, then rub it down good with an automotive rubbing
compound. Pour some more beer on it to clean it up, and you're in business!
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 4:54 PM
> I have a bulkhead mounted compass that's apparently never had a cover on
it and it hazy. Is there a plastic polishing compound or method anyone can
recommend that might help?
>
> Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle
> Sandpoint, Idaho
> M15-345, Chukar
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>
------------------------------
Message: 5
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Cc: derfsails@aol.com
Fred, I'm assuming you're talking about the new M23 Offshore Cutter. I
think I speak for everyone when I say, "I'd very much like to see more of
and hear more about your boat!!!" I'm also assuming that you've purchased
the first Offshore Cutter built. Please post pics when you have them, and
let us know how your 23' performs. Thanks! --Craig, chonshell@ia4u.net
----- Original Message -----
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 3:35 PM
Hi Mark,
You may want to talk with Bob Eeg, as the 23 I have purchased from him
does have a bronze center board. We are scheduled to put the mast up and
check the center board this coming Monday then put it in the water on
Tuesday.
Fred Shelley
derfsails@aol.com
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Message: 6
To: "Montgomery Boat List"
Greets,
This is off topic a bit, so feel free to answer offline. I just discovered
water in the oil on my Honda 8. It is used as a kicker on my Catalina and
on my fishing boat. Has anyone on the list encountered this problem? If
so, what was the cause/cure...? I suspect that I am in store for a new
gasket somewhere.
Thanks in advance...
Steve
M15-159 "Sojornen"
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Message: 7
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
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Message: 8
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Thanks, Tod.
I may make the same modification.
Has anyone else on the list made a modification to the position of the luff
throat on their mast?
Has anyone lowered their luff throat closer to the resting position of the
boom, but kept it above the boom?
Thanks!
--Craig, chonshell@ia4u.net
----- Original Message -----
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 10:59 PM
Craig,
I think it works well and as mentioned, the only improvement I can think of
that I'd like is a pin through the track instead of the thumbscrewed sail
stop. If I were starting with a new mast and boom I'd give it some more
thought, though.
One other thing I should mention is that there is a short piece of line that
runs from an eye on the gooseneck fitting down to a pin at the foot of the
mast. That is what allows the luff of the sail to be tensioned.
Busca had lazyjacks when I first got her...I tried them once and promptly
removed them as being more headache than help....it's such a small boat.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Honshells
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 9:24 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
That's very interesting, Tod. I never considered "below the boom" . . . Is
the "up from below" approach a hassle? Do you use lazy-jacks? Thanks for
your input! --Craig
----- Original Message -----
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 10:15 PM
Hi, Craig
BuscaBrisas' mast "throat" was moved by her former owner. It is now *below*
the normal operating position of the boom. The sail is equipped with slugs.
One feeds the slugs in, then the boom, and then add a stop below the boom
but above the "throat". Works pretty well although some sort of pin would
work better than a sail stop I think. (the sail stop has loosened up once or
twice; I have to check it every few days to be sure it isn't loosening up.
I believe he made the modification with a bit of pounding and prying...
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Honshells
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 9:08 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Does anyone else have trouble with the height of the luff-groove "throat" on
the older M17's (I have an '84) mast? I don't know the dimensions, but my
throat is substantially higher than the position of the boom (once
installed). Perhaps this serves a purpose, but I'm no engineer, so I have
no idea what that purpose is. The height of the "throat" makes it very
difficult for me to feed my mainsail (I'm only 5' tall).
I would like the throat located lower, perhaps only a few inches above the
resting position of the boom. I could feed the mainsail, which now has
slugs (I had them added last year), then use a sail-stop to prevent the
slugs from sliding free when the sail is dropped. If I had the main ready
to go on the boom, perhaps secured with lazy-jacks, with the luff (slugs)
fed into the mast, it would ease single-handing 100%.
What I'm wondering: Would it be possible for an aluminum shop to close the
old, high, throat and bend a new one in a lower, more convenient spot?
------------------------------
Message: 9
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Steve,
There are several posts about Hondas oil level increasing on the iboats.com
web site. Most are from a faulty fuel pump and one was from a stuck open
thermostat.
Bill
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Message 44 of 46

Why did I know Larry was going to contribute his two cents on this subject? t
Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle
Sandpoint, Idaho
M15-345, Chukar
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 9:52 AM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Hi Randy,
Well it's about time you quit dragging those fenders around the lake!
;-) Sounds like what you really need is some version of a tiller tamer
system so you can let go of the tiller to take care of things like that
when you need to. There should be lots of ways to do that listed in the
archives.
Larry
On Sun, 7 Sep 2003 08:02:16 -0700 "Randy Graves"
writes:
> Friends,
>
> Does anyone have any good ideas of how to handle the fenders when
> single-handed sailing? For ease and convenience I have been leaving
> them attached while under sail. I would like to come up with a
> handy way to deploy and retrieve without letting the boat get away
> from me in the process, or having them roll around in the cockpit
> all day. Any ideas?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Randy Graves
>
>
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Message 45 of 46

I really like that idea, Don. --Craig, chonshell@ia4u.net
----- Original Message -----
To:
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 9:40 AM
Randy:
My storebought fenders rest in the locker under the bunk for those raft-up
occasions. My working fenders are made from red "noodles", those foam tubes
used by swimmers. I found one 4" OD with a 1/2" hole in the middle, cut into
18" long pieces, and ran some 1/4" poly rope through the holes. I used some
3/4" plastic washers at each end with a retaining knot at each end. Made up
four of them and they fit in the cockpit lockers with the mooring lines. The
red color matches my M-15 stripe. I attach them to some SS eyes screwed to
the outside of my teak toerail at 3 ft intervals amidships. They work very
well. My tiller tamer is a homemade plastic jam cleat on the underside of
the tiller connected to a Bungie cord strung across the stern from SS eyes.
One end goes through a hole in a short teak block, around the eye, and back
to another hole in the block. This acts a a tension device.
When I heave to, to raise or lower the sails, I stow, or unstow the fenders.
Fair winds
Don Ludlow M-15 Sweet Dream
sailing?
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Hi Randy,
When I go out sailing, as soon as I'm out in clear water, I put the boat
on autopilot (my bungee cord to tiller system), and remove the fenders.
My fenders - depending on length of sail, and number of people on board -
have two stowage positions.
If my wife is along, or the grandchildren, fenders go into the port sail
locker, to clean up the cockpit floor area.
If I'm sailing by myself for just an hour or two (and it's pleasant
sailing - no rail under, etc.) I just leave them on the cockpit floor, at
the aft end of the cockpit.
There they are out of the way; but can be reached easily when I head back
in to my slip at the marina.
Connie

Message 46 of 46

The bracket came with the boat, so I've never tried the cutout with any motor. But I see from other replies that there might be some interference. I'd say even with the bracket you could manage rudder/prop contact under some extreme circumstances (especially if you're juggling the motor and the rudder at the same time--I guess I'd recommend one or the other, but not both--I've done both, but for me it's disconcerting). My rule of thumb is steering with the rudder with the motor fixed is best because the boat is much more responsive to the rudder than the motor.
I also have the older 2 with no clutch, which can make life interesting until you break the code--you get good at manipulating the power head backing up. The nice thing about the 2 is when its throttled down the boat moves slowly and you have time to think about your next move.
I might add that without a tiller tamer of some kind to secure the rudder amidships while you maneuver the boat with the motor alone (especially in reverse), you'd be in a world of hurt.
Just dry run all the conditions so you know ahead of time what doesn't work, then go slow when you do it for real. I can't imagine you'll have to worry much about the motor in the raised position while sailing. t
Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle
Sandpoint, Idaho
M15-345, Chukar
M17-064, Unnamed