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Montgomery Sailboats List Archives Search Results

Montgomery Sailboats List Archives Search Results

20 messages found for  "centerboard" in the body,  "repair" in body,  "2003" in date,  follow:

Click on a link to jump to the corresponding message
M_Boats: CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
M_Boats: CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
Marking The Waterline
M_Boats: Re: Bilge water and trip preparations
M_Boats: M15 CB question
RE: M_Boats: Good Old Boat
M_Boats: Sealanr Recomendations
M_Boats: M-15 Center Board Pivot Pin Repair Procedure
M_Boats: Deck hole repairs
(Continued next column)		 M_Boats: Deck hole repairs
M_Boats: Deck hole repairs
Deck hole repairs
Deck hole repairs
Deck hole repairs
M_Boats: Keel Stop Bolt Repair
M_Boats: New Old M-17
M_Boats: New Old M-17
M_Boats: Bilge Water
M_Boats: Re: drawing

Message 1 of 20

From: (Martin Johnson)
Subject: M_Boats: CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
Date: Sun Jan 12 20:51:33 2003
-----------------------------------

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BA41.B772F480
charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi everybody!
My M-17 Sunflower has been at the spa for a bit of an overhaul. Photos =
and narration are available at the following link: =
http://msog.org/how-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfm
There are detailed photos including the centerboard completely removed, =
as well as some insight as to what goes on inside that keel/centerboard =
rig. Click photos for greater detail. Extra thanks to Doug King for =
providing such a wonderful website.
enjoy!
Martin Johnson
M-17 1976 #218 Sunflower
Duluth, MN
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BA41.B772F480
charset="iso-8859-1"


charset=3Diso-8859-1">




Hi everybody!

My M-17 Sunflower has been at the spa for a bit of =
an=20
overhaul.  Photos and narration are available at the following =
link:size=3D3> href=3D"http://msog.org/how-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfm"=20
eudora=3D"autourl">size=3D3>http://msog.org/how-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfmA>
There=20
are detailed photos including the centerboard completely removed, as =
well as=20
some insight as to what goes on inside that keel/centerboard rig.  =
Click=20
photos for greater detail.  Extra thanks to Doug King for providing =
such a=20
wonderful website.

enjoy!

Martin Johnson

M-17 1976 #218 Sunflower

Duluth, MN

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C2BA41.B772F480--

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Message 2 of 20

From: "Martin Johnson"
Subject: CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
Date: Sun Jan 12 20:11:42 2003
-----------------------------------

Thanks, Martin and Doug. Martin, Can you explain in detail how the
centerboard inspection ports will be used? Thanks again, Craig
----- Original Message -----
To:
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 3:51 PM
Hi everybody!
My M-17 Sunflower has been at the spa for a bit of an overhaul. Photos and
narration are available at the following link:
http://msog.org/how-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfm
There are detailed photos including the centerboard completely removed, as
well as some insight as to what goes on inside that keel/centerboard rig.
Click photos for greater detail. Extra thanks to Doug King for providing
such a wonderful website.
enjoy!
Martin Johnson
M-17 1976 #218 Sunflower
Duluth, MN

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Message 3 of 20

From: (Howard Audsley)
Subject: M_Boats: CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
Date: Mon Jan 13 04:37:06 2003
-----------------------------------

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--B_3125255826_7807489
Mystery white stuff may well have been epoxy, thickened with a filler like
404. If you are aggressive and mix it thick, it can come out looking like
whipped cream, and the bubbles can=B9t escape. Someone might have made such a
mix to keep it from running out of the crack.
What was the approximate cost for this repair? Please respond with a privat=
e
note if you don=B9t care to make this public.
Thanks,=20
Howard
On 1/12/03 2:51 PM, "Martin Johnson" wrote:
> Hi everybody!
> My M-17 Sunflower has been at the spa for a bit of an overhaul. Photos a=
nd
> narration are available at the following link:
> http://msog.org/how-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfm
>
> There are detailed photos including the centerboard completely removed, a=
s
> well as some insight as to what goes on inside that keel/centerboard rig.
> Click photos for greater detail. Extra thanks to Doug King for providing=
such
> a wonderful website.
> enjoy!
> Martin Johnson
> M-17 1976 #218 Sunflower
> Duluth, MN
>=20
--B_3125255826_7807489


Re: M_Boats: CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!


Mystery white stuff may well have been epoxy, thickene=
d with a filler like 404. If you are aggressive and mix it thick, it can com=
e out looking like whipped cream, and the bubbles can’t escape. Someon=
e might have made such a mix to keep it from running out of the crack.



What was the approximate cost for this repair? Please respond with a privat=
e note if you don’t care to make this public.



Thanks,



Howard



On 1/12/03 2:51 PM, "Martin Johnson" <martlexi@cpinternet.com&=
gt; wrote:



Hi everybody!

My M-17 Sunflower has been at the spa for a bit of an overhaul.  Photo=
s and narration are available at the following link: http://msog.org/=
how-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfm <http://msog.org/h=
ow-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfm>

There are detailed photos including the centerboard completely removed, as =
well as some insight as to what goes on inside that keel/centerboard rig. &n=
bsp;Click photos for greater detail.  Extra thanks to Doug King for pro=
viding such a wonderful website.

enjoy!

Martin Johnson

M-17 1976 #218 Sunflower

Duluth, MN








--B_3125255826_7807489--

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Message 4 of 20

From: "ron and cathryn goodspeed"
Subject: Marking The Waterline
Date: Sun Feb 23 02:43:53 2003
-----------------------------------

The guy who refurbished my 17's iron centerboard recruited the help of only one other, but it was a
backbreaking messy job and he dropped the board when he tried to replace it: It was covered in fiberglass at
that point and he had to touch up some damage.
In case anyone is now curious, I wouldn't recommend the expense of having someone cover your old c-board in
'glass. I think it's probably more cost-effective to replace a heavily-deteriorated board with a less
corrosion-prone (stainless steel?) copy. But when I came to that realization, I'd crossed the Rubicon and
probably now have the only early Monty in existence with an iron-cored fiberglass board.
----- Original Message -----
To:
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 5:38 PM
Well, "hula pie" is hanging from the rafters in my shop [with extra
supports under the keel] and she ain't going back in the water until
that new bottom is on, so I'm glad to hear the various ideas on marking
the waterline. The supports under the keel are exactly level and yet
the old waterline was about one inch higher on the bow- should it be
exactly level all the way around? Something I never noticed until
stripping the old bottom-what a horrible job that is! -that the
waterline port and starboard are about 2 inches different and not even
on the same strake! I am thinking of adding a boot stripe- do they look
good on a lapstrake boat? What type of paint should I use for the
stripe?
While she's up I will be removing the iron board for sandblasting, etc
and repairing the area around the stop pin where a previous repair needs
some more work. How heavy are the old iron c-boards and how many people
are needed to safely remove it without getting crushed toes? Any clever
ideas on how to paint up inside the trunk?
Thanks for the great ideas and info,
Ron Goodspeed M17 "hula pie" #025

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Message 5 of 20

From: htmills at bright.net (htmills@bright.net)
Subject: M_Boats: Re: Bilge water and trip preparations
Date: Mon Apr 14 10:13:05 2003
-----------------------------------

Dan,
If I recall correctly, the earlier 17's have a centerboard winch just inside
the companionway? Mine is a newer one with the lighter board and
the pendant (thank you Howard) "tube" is glassed to the cockpit sole
and the pendant comes out in the cockpit like the 15's, so I don't think
any is coming in that way.
I shall make it a point to re-do the traveller track before next spring, Ken.
I hadn't thought of that. I'm sure after 15 years of neglect it could stand
to be re-bedded. Thanks!
I shall check the drains, Wayne. Thanks for the testing procedure.
The amount of water on this trip was only about a couple of inches in the bilge
(not much) plus what laid in the lapstrakes. The main reason I'm concerned
about it is that it gets things wet (cans leaving rust marks, can't easily store
clothing below). Also, on a warm day the warmth and dampness shortens the
shelf-life of fresh food stored in the lockers. I suppose too, like Craig suggested,
freezing water could damage the boat...
*****************
Ron,
Yes, it does offer variety...one can stay back up inside the bays and sail in pretty
well-protected water or venture out further if so inclined. It isn't as hospitable
as the Chesapeake but is still very interesting. And the boats on the moorings
are so beautiful. Sailing through a mooring field there is like strolling through an
art gallery. I never saw so much gleaming woodwork before, including
*wow* mahogany transoms with inlaid goldleaf lettering.
I didn't do anything special as far as outfitting. I did bring along a small Sevylor
inflatable dinghy, but to be honest, it's getting pretty tedious inflating it and deflating
it at each stop. It won't tow or row well. Haven't tried strapping it onto the foredeck
yet but I imagine that would be pretty tight. Maybe I'll try that this weekend.
Busca has now her main and four jibs: 155%, 109%, 80%, and a 15 sq ft storm jib.
My main dilemma was a lack of desire to climb up on the pitching foredeck when
just a few minutes earlier I had been periodically airborne on the vee-berth. I need to
get that figured out better. During the trip I used every sail. The wind while sailing
ranged from flat calm to a little over 25 kts. Tried out the storm jib and was pretty
well pleased with it. It might be a wee bit small....maybe 20 sq ft would be better.
I did bring the outboard but only used about an eighth of a tank. Used it twice in
Rockland Harbor (launch site), once to motor through the mooring field at Brooklin
when there was not much wind and some current, and once at dusk when the wind
died a half-mile from my anchorage and the current was sweeping me away.
No liferaft. Yes, singlehanded with pawed Bilbo as crew. To his credit he never
got seasick even while in a closed cabin (He prefers reclining on cushions to sliding
and scraping on slippery gelcoat). Nothing special about the companionway other
than Busca was sporting new hatchboards of ash plywood with oak "battens".
(the old hatchboard had some veneer damage and had been painted to cover the
repairs).
I was surprised to see not one single ship beyond the Maine Maritime Academy's
"State of Maine" tied up in Castine [http://www.mma.edu/]. Several smaller commercial
boats (not counting the countless lobster boats) making runs to and from the islands, but no
ships.
While rummaging around I got to thinking about storage issues and got the idea that it
would be nice if the space under the vee berth forward of the pot & battery had a couple
more access hatches and was subdivided into three smaller compartments with a T:
/\
/ 0 \
/ ------\
/ 0 | 0 \
/ | \
It seems that whatever I pack up there ends up who knows where after being tossed and
tilted and shaken all day. With the moisture, I've been keeping mainly just the water
jugs up there.
Another thought was some small storage compartments built on top of the seatback
between that top and the sidedecks. Those would be for little things like the salt and
pepper shakers, spare AA and D batteries, rolls of film and such.
I doubt I'll ever go to the trouble of those two changes, but something I am planning on
adding are some small racks to the inside of the companionway bulkhead. But first I need
to finish the windvane.
The Potter Yachters have added some of Bill Teplow's story to their web page:
http://www.potter-yachters.org/stories/teplow_to_hawaii.htm
Happy reading,
Tod

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Message 6 of 20

From: winarski at cox.net (Stanley Winarski)
Subject: M_Boats: M15 CB question
Date: Sat Jul 5 23:23:26 2003
-----------------------------------

John,
There was no bushing in my M-15 centerboard. I had the board repaired
(the pivotal corner had cracked and failed). When they glassed the
corner back on, I had them imbed a large eye bolt in the hopes that it
would prevent the corner from breaking out again. So far, (about 5
years) it has not given me any problems. I did not replace the pin.
It was in good condition.
Stan
M-15, #177, Carol II

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Message 7 of 20

From: "Shadd Piehl"
Subject: RE: M_Boats: Good Old Boat
Date: Thu Jul 10 14:55:13 2003
-----------------------------------

Shadd:
I am the former owner of an M17. Fantastic boat. Best one I've ever owned.
My wife and I sold it to Tom Howe, on this list, so that we could partner up
with another couple who had a larger sailboat on a slip at a local lake.
I have had some success with straightening a mast with a bend in it.
We stored our M17 on its trailer under a tarp that was draped over the mast.
The mast was suspended on the bow pulpit and the mast crutch at the stern.
This set up offered good protection, however one winter morning I discovered
that there was 8" of snow weighing down the tarp and mast. I brushed off
the snow and did not give it any further thought. The following spring,
after a couple of sails, I realized that the mast had a 1.5 to 2 inch bend
to port. There was no evidence of any creasing. I lived with it for a
couple of months as I tried to figure out what to do.
I decided that I would wait for a hot day and then lay it on my driveway to
warm it up real good. With the air temp at 95 and the concrete considerably
warmer the mast became hot to the touch. I arranged my two cars, one in
front of the other, with the top of the mast blocked up under one frame and
the bottom of mast blocked up under the other frame. I used some old carpet
to protect the finish of the mast and cars. At the mid-point of the mast I
held up a 1x4" piece of solid oak that was about 18" long while I gently
pumped up a hydraulic jack
to secure the oak in place. I raised the mast until it was level. Next I
tightly tied a string between the cars at the height of the now level mast.
My plan was to jack up the mast until I could induce enought pressure to
reverse the bend caused by the snow. I was pretty concerned that I was
about to ruin the mast, but I decided that it was unacceptable to have such
a severe bend, and that if I ruined it I would replace it with a new one.
I jacked up the mast two inches above the reference string and came back 30
minutes later. I released the jack and the mast sagged below the string,
but not as far as it did prior to the pressure. I jacked up the mast three
inches and came back in 30 minutes.... I repeated this process until I had
jacked up the mast eight inches. This last amount was the most nerve
racking, but I was finally successful in reversing the bend. The mast
performed flawlessly after this repair.
If your mast has a crease in it rather than a bend you must replace it for
safety reasons.
Best of luck,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:32 AM
> I am wondering if you can advise? I have a M15 that got a bent mast while
> transporting...What can be done? Waht have others done? Do you have any
> experience in this?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
> [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com]On Behalf Of
> Richard Lane
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 1:11 AM
> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Good Old Boat
>
>
> I believe it was Jerry's foreman who sailed "Freebird" a reduced cockpit
> volume M17>
> Dick
>
> Honshells wrote:
>
> > The Montgomery 17' gets an honorable mention from Ted Brewer in the
latest
> issue of "Good Old Boat". The
> > segment is on page 47 from a comparison of trailersailers that follows
an
> article on the Victoria 18'. Brewer
> > compares the Victoria 18', the Cape Dory Typhoon and the Com-Pac 16CB.
> Ted writes, "It's obvious that the
> > performance champion of the group is the Montgomery 17' with her long
> waterline, generous sail area, and
> > modest ballast adding to the form stability of her beamy
keel/centerboard
> hull." The segment has mistakes:
> > It lists the M17's displacement at 1,500 lb. and its ballast at 500 lb.
> Well, basically, the M17 stats in the
> > chart on page 47 vary several times from those on Nor'Sea's website.
> Also, the drawing of the "M17" used by
> > "Good Old Boat" is actually the M23. Anyway, Brewer says none of the
> boats compared should venture out of
> > sight of land and I know some would disagree with that, also.
> >
> > I recently re-read the M17 review in "Small Craft Advisor" and it
repeats
> the Nor'Sea website claim that the
> > M17 has sailed from California to Hawaii: But we established recently
> that this is a myth, didn't we?
> >
> > Was it Jerry M. who "sailed from Cape Hatteras to San Diego via the
Panama
> Canal"? If not, then who?
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Message 8 of 20

From: doug_kelch at yahoo.com (Doug Kelch)
Subject: M_Boats: Sealanr Recomendations
Date: Mon Jul 14 05:45:02 2003
-----------------------------------

Jon,
I wish I had the answer.
The pin in my M15 is flush with both sides of the
keel. I do not know if it is the original pin and for
some reason I doubt that it is.
I have had repeated problems keeping the pin in and I
would rather not put a bolt in but I am coming close.
I tried 4200 - it crept out very quickly.
I glassed it over and it lasted about 3 trips and
broke out the fiber glass.
I covered the pin on both sides with really sticky,
strong clear sail repair tape and this worked well for
a while but the pin then started punching through the
tape!
I recently took a spare pin and cut off 1/4 inch to
get the pin recessed so the epoxy would have more
bight. I have epoxied it in but haven't had the boat
out yet.
Thanks
Doug
"M15 #310
--- Jon Martin wrote:
> I would appreciate any rexomendations for sealing
> the centerboard pivot pin
> on an M15 -thanks, in advance, Jon Martin
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months
> FREE*.
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Message 9 of 20

From: vhimsl at turbonet.com (Vincent Himsl)
Subject: M_Boats: M-15 Center Board Pivot Pin Repair Procedure
Date: Sun Aug 10 17:25:25 2003
-----------------------------------

Hello,
Having asked for advice on the net concerning my wayward centerboard pin and
having received several suggestions from many people including Montgomery
boats (Thanks Bob!) I thought I would describe what I did.
PROBLEM:
Center board pin keeps working its way out due to use and most likely,
trailer vibration.
SOLUTION METHOD:
Modify pin and use marine grade epoxy
SOLUTION PROCEDURE:
1. Shorten (if necessary) the steel pin so that when inserted back into boat
the depth on each side is no greater than @1/16". This is unfortunately a
'rough cut and then fine grind' procedure as you want as much pin to hull
contact as possible.
2. After correct pin length for your M - 15 is determined, remove the pin
and seriously rough up the ends where they contact the hull. I used a
grinder to put @1/32" deep gouges around the ends. This is to give the
epoxy something to grab on too. Those of you who have access to a lathe and
a knurling tool could a more elegant job of it...even make up extras to sell
on the net...but I digress.
3. Insert the pin back into the boat through the center board BEFORE you
apply any epoxy. You want to epoxy the pin to the hull, not the center board
to the pin.
4. Push the pin completely through one side (don't forget the center board)
so that the ruffed up end is showing through on the other. Coat the hole and
the exposed pin end. Now push the pin back through the hole till the other
side of pin is exposed and then coat the exposed pin end and the hole on the
other side of the boat. Next push the pin back in till the recessed depth on
both sides is equal.
5. Let Dry completely. I let it set two days.
6. You can finish sand smooth as the spot is under water and the dark spot
won't be seen or you can be anal about it (like me) sand the area with 80
grit paper, fill with Bondo light activated fiberglass repair (the cream
colored one matches the boat color pretty good) and then sand smooth. There
will still be a dark spot but it will not be as obvious.
RESULTS:
I have just completed a round trip from Moscow, ID to Ogden, UT (GPS 924
miles) with sailing on Cascade Lake, ID and Bear Lake, UT which translates
to a trip total of well over 1000 miles.
There is no cracking evident so I must judge the repair a success. I will
report back if and when the repair fails.
MATERIALS:
Bondo brand light activated fiberglass repair
Ace Marine grade epoxy
Various grades of sand paper
Hope this helps those with similar problem. And again thanks to all who sent
me suggestions!
Vince and Sharon Himsl
M-15 Duet
P.S. I sure hope I don't have a need to remove the pin...

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Message 10 of 20

From: jonmartin666 at msn.com (Jon Martin)
Subject: M_Boats: Deck hole repairs
Date: Sun Aug 10 19:11:28 2003
-----------------------------------

I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail

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Message 11 of 20

From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
Subject: M_Boats: Deck hole repairs
Date: Mon Aug 11 21:27:50 2003
-----------------------------------

Jon,
I put a little square of masking tape over the underside of the hole before
filling with epoxy. Someone suggested working the epoxy into the hole with
a Q-tip (Bob?) to ensure good contact. Worked very well for me.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Martin
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:11 PM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Message 12 of 20

From: SteveR. (SteveR.)
Subject: M_Boats: Deck hole repairs
Date: Mon Aug 11 22:53:51 2003
-----------------------------------

Well, I returned home late last night from my Newfoundland/Montreal trip.
Actually bailed out a day early in Trois Rivieres since we got a late start
after changing transmissions. I must say, I sure like the way the
Montgomery handles a lot better than the Cape Dory 33. And the cockpit in
the Montgomery is a WHOLE lot more comfortable than the cockpit on the CD
33. And give me a tiller over a wheel any day of the week.
Here's to a well-designed, well-built SMALL boat.
Here's to a Montgomery!
Tod
From SteveR. Tue Aug 12 07:54:48 2003
I have not done this, but ShipShape TV used a two part foam to fill a void in a fiberglass hard top. Obviously you have to make sure the foam does not squeeze the deck apart. The drawback to this method is a two quart supply costs $80 at West Marine, which makes two cubic feet of foam. (Everclear brand). I found a reference to a $25 product at jamestowndistributors.com but they only list a $75 two gallon product - "Dura-Cote".
Has anyone used a foam?
steve
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington, KY
--- "Jon Martin" wrote:
>
>
>I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
>sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
>holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
>sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
>the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Message 13 of 20

From: "Steve R."
Subject: Deck hole repairs
Date: Tue Aug 12 22:10:43 2003
-----------------------------------

Is this anything like the DAP insulating foam you can find in cans at any hardware store?
----- Original Message -----
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 9:54 AM
I have not done this, but ShipShape TV used a two part foam to fill a void in a fiberglass hard top.
Obviously you have to make sure the foam does not squeeze the deck apart. The drawback to this method is a
two quart supply costs $80 at West Marine, which makes two cubic feet of foam. (Everclear brand). I found a
reference to a $25 product at jamestowndistributors.com but they only list a $75 two gallon product -
"Dura-Cote".
Has anyone used a foam?
steve
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington, KY
--- "Jon Martin" wrote:
I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon

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Message 14 of 20

From: "Steve R."
Subject: Deck hole repairs
Date: Thu Aug 14 17:43:35 2003
-----------------------------------

Doug:
Very cool photos. One shot was printed in the last issue of SCA. Did you
make it all the way to the Dry Tortugas?
Don Ludlow
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 8:08 PM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
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Today's Topics:
1. Testing link to pictures (Doug Kelch)
2. Deck hole repairs (Jon Martin)
3. Re: Testing link to pictures (Jesse Tate)
4. RE: Photo's of Solitude (htmills@bright.net)
5. RE: streamer (htmills@bright.net)
6. RE: Bow Chocks (htmills@bright.net)
7. Bow Chocks (Honshells)
8. RE: Deck hole repairs (htmills@bright.net)
9. home from the Seaway (htmills@bright.net)
10. Re: Deck hole repairs (SteveR.)
11. Re: Deck hole repairs (chbenneck@juno.com)
12. Deck hole repairs (Honshells)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
To: Montgomery
If the trailer sailor doesn't let you post pictures
any more I thought I would try this site.
I think I have to wait a day to get these in the
gallery at the imagestation site.
I thought I would try this anyway.
Sorry if it inconvieniences anyone.
Key West trip below
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289436543&code=6107000&mode=invite
CBC 2003 below
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289439081&code=6107013&mode=invite
Doug Kelch
"Seas the Day"
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message: 2
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
------------------------------
Message: 3
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Great picture Doug.
Thanks,
Jesse
----- Original Message -----
To: "Montgomery"
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:01 PM
> If the trailer sailor doesn't let you post pictures
> any more I thought I would try this site.
>
> I think I have to wait a day to get these in the
> gallery at the imagestation site.
>
> I thought I would try this anyway.
>
> Sorry if it inconvieniences anyone.
>
> Key West trip below
>
> http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289436543&code=6107000&mode=invite
>
> CBC 2003 below
>
> http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289439081&code=6107013&mode=invite
>
>
> Doug Kelch
> "Seas the Day"
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
------------------------------
Message: 4
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Thanks for the update, Jeff! Looking good!
------------------------------
Message: 5
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Glad you are able to put it to good use, Rich!

-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Cottrell
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 8:15 PM
To: Montgomery Boats
Tod:

Just want to thank you for the streamer which flies atop "Really's" mast.
One of the few times I neglected to attach it was the day of the knockdown.
Just return from a couple days sailing with streamer flying proud, without
incident.

Rich Cottrell M15
-------------- next part --------------
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ents/20030811/024fe7bc/attachment-0001.html
------------------------------
Message: 6
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Craig,
They are approximately 4 1/2" long overall. The mounting holes are about 3
3/4" apart. I'd recommend the Skene type chocks (the kind with overlapping
"fingers") over the straight type because the line stays in place better.
Quite a while ago I had bought a pair of larger ones on e-bay but after
studying the situation I concluded they were a bit too large. Probably
better suited to a 23.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Honshells
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 10:03 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
How long are the bow chocks on Busca, Tod? Six inches? Thanks, Craig
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
------------------------------
Message: 7
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Thanks, Tod. I like the look of the skene type best, anyway. --Craig
----- Original Message -----
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 7:53 PM
Craig,
They are approximately 4 1/2" long overall. The mounting holes are about 3
3/4" apart. I'd recommend the Skene type chocks (the kind with overlapping
"fingers") over the straight type because the line stays in place better.
Quite a while ago I had bought a pair of larger ones on e-bay but after
studying the situation I concluded they were a bit too large. Probably
better suited to a 23.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Honshells
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 10:03 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
How long are the bow chocks on Busca, Tod? Six inches? Thanks, Craig
------------------------------
Message: 8
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Jon,
I put a little square of masking tape over the underside of the hole before
filling with epoxy. Someone suggested working the epoxy into the hole with
a Q-tip (Bob?) to ensure good contact. Worked very well for me.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Martin
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:11 PM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
------------------------------
Message: 9
To:
Well, I returned home late last night from my Newfoundland/Montreal trip.
Actually bailed out a day early in Trois Rivieres since we got a late start
after changing transmissions. I must say, I sure like the way the
Montgomery handles a lot better than the Cape Dory 33. And the cockpit in
the Montgomery is a WHOLE lot more comfortable than the cockpit on the CD
33. And give me a tiller over a wheel any day of the week.
Here's to a well-designed, well-built SMALL boat.
Here's to a Montgomery!
Tod
------------------------------
Message: 10
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats

I have not done this, but ShipShape TV used a two part foam to fill a void
in a fiberglass hard top. Obviously you have to make sure the foam does
not squeeze the deck apart. The drawback to this method is a two quart
supply costs $80 at West Marine, which makes two cubic feet of foam.
(Everclear brand). I found a reference to a $25 product at
jamestowndistributors.com but they only list a $75 two gallon product -
"Dura-Cote".
Has anyone used a foam?
steve
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington, KY
--- "Jon Martin" wrote:
>
>
>I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
>sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
>holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
>sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
>the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
------------------------------
Message: 11
To: stever@mail.saabnet.com,montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Hi Steve,
I don't know the size of your deck holes, but if they are just bolt or
screw holes that is a pretty simple operation.
If you have larger areas where the balsa is rotten (soft), then it's
another type of problem.
For small bolt and screw holes, I just went into the hole with a nail
bent in an "L" shape to get back to solid balsa.
Then I put some masking tape over the bottom of the hole to keep the
epoxy from dripping out.
Next I mixed up some epoxy, and tried as best I could to coat the inside
of the cavity with epoxy. Then I added filler to the remaining epoxy and
using a small plastic syringe injected the thickened epoxy into the
cavity till it was full (and a bit above the deck).
When it had hardened, I carefully shaved off the excess sticking above
the hole.
~~~~~~~~~~
If you have larger voids or spongy areas, one approach is to first define
the area.
Then you have to drill a series of holes to allow you to remove the
spongy balsa and get back to solid balsa all around the soft area.
Next it has to dry out thoroughly before you fill it again with thickened
epoxy.
I have used foam to build a better icebox in my big boat, but you have to
have sufficient area for it to grow and expand or else it will force your
deck apart as it grows in volume.
If you haven't seen the WEST Instruction Book, I recommend reading it.
WEST covers all sorts of repairs, and is a great "How to" book if you
haven't done this sort of work before.
Connie
M15 #400 LEPPO
------------------------------
Message: 12
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Is this anything like the DAP insulating foam you can find in cans at any
hardware store?
----- Original Message -----
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 9:54 AM
I have not done this, but ShipShape TV used a two part foam to fill a void
in a fiberglass hard top.
Obviously you have to make sure the foam does not squeeze the deck apart.
The drawback to this method is a
two quart supply costs $80 at West Marine, which makes two cubic feet of
foam. (Everclear brand). I found a
reference to a $25 product at jamestowndistributors.com but they only list a
$75 two gallon product -
"Dura-Cote".
Has anyone used a foam?
steve
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington, KY
--- "Jon Martin" wrote:
I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
montgomery_boats mailing list
montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 6, Issue 6
**********************************************

Go TopGo Bottom

Message 15 of 20

From: "Steve R."
Subject: Deck hole repairs
Date: Thu Aug 14 23:51:20 2003
-----------------------------------

Which shot, Don? I'll look for it! Thanks, Craig
----- Original Message -----
To:
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2003 5:43 PM
Doug:
Very cool photos. One shot was printed in the last issue of SCA. Did you
make it all the way to the Dry Tortugas?
Don Ludlow
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 8:08 PM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to
montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com
You can reach the person managing the list at
montgomery_boats-owner@mailman.xmission.com
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Testing link to pictures (Doug Kelch)
2. Deck hole repairs (Jon Martin)
3. Re: Testing link to pictures (Jesse Tate)
4. RE: Photo's of Solitude (htmills@bright.net)
5. RE: streamer (htmills@bright.net)
6. RE: Bow Chocks (htmills@bright.net)
7. Bow Chocks (Honshells)
8. RE: Deck hole repairs (htmills@bright.net)
9. home from the Seaway (htmills@bright.net)
10. Re: Deck hole repairs (SteveR.)
11. Re: Deck hole repairs (chbenneck@juno.com)
12. Deck hole repairs (Honshells)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
To: Montgomery
If the trailer sailor doesn't let you post pictures
any more I thought I would try this site.
I think I have to wait a day to get these in the
gallery at the imagestation site.
I thought I would try this anyway.
Sorry if it inconvieniences anyone.
Key West trip below
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289436543&code=6107000&mode=invite
CBC 2003 below
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289439081&code=6107013&mode=invite
Doug Kelch
"Seas the Day"
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message: 2
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
------------------------------
Message: 3
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Great picture Doug.
Thanks,
Jesse
----- Original Message -----
To: "Montgomery"
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:01 PM
> If the trailer sailor doesn't let you post pictures
> any more I thought I would try this site.
>
> I think I have to wait a day to get these in the
> gallery at the imagestation site.
>
> I thought I would try this anyway.
>
> Sorry if it inconvieniences anyone.
>
> Key West trip below
>
> http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289436543&code=6107000&mode=invite
>
> CBC 2003 below
>
> http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289439081&code=6107013&mode=invite
>
>
> Doug Kelch
> "Seas the Day"
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
------------------------------
Message: 4
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Thanks for the update, Jeff! Looking good!
------------------------------
Message: 5
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Glad you are able to put it to good use, Rich!
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Cottrell
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 8:15 PM
To: Montgomery Boats
Tod:
Just want to thank you for the streamer which flies atop "Really's" mast.
One of the few times I neglected to attach it was the day of the knockdown.
Just return from a couple days sailing with streamer flying proud, without
incident.
Rich Cottrell M15
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/private/montgomery_boats/attachm
ents/20030811/024fe7bc/attachment-0001.html
------------------------------
Message: 6
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Craig,
They are approximately 4 1/2" long overall. The mounting holes are about 3
3/4" apart. I'd recommend the Skene type chocks (the kind with overlapping
"fingers") over the straight type because the line stays in place better.
Quite a while ago I had bought a pair of larger ones on e-bay but after
studying the situation I concluded they were a bit too large. Probably
better suited to a 23.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Honshells
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 10:03 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
How long are the bow chocks on Busca, Tod? Six inches? Thanks, Craig
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
------------------------------
Message: 7
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Thanks, Tod. I like the look of the skene type best, anyway. --Craig
----- Original Message -----
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 7:53 PM
Craig,
They are approximately 4 1/2" long overall. The mounting holes are about 3
3/4" apart. I'd recommend the Skene type chocks (the kind with overlapping
"fingers") over the straight type because the line stays in place better.
Quite a while ago I had bought a pair of larger ones on e-bay but after
studying the situation I concluded they were a bit too large. Probably
better suited to a 23.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of
Honshells
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 10:03 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
How long are the bow chocks on Busca, Tod? Six inches? Thanks, Craig
------------------------------
Message: 8
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"

Jon,
I put a little square of masking tape over the underside of the hole before
filling with epoxy. Someone suggested working the epoxy into the hole with
a Q-tip (Bob?) to ensure good contact. Worked very well for me.
Tod
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Martin
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:11 PM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
------------------------------
Message: 9
To:
Well, I returned home late last night from my Newfoundland/Montreal trip.
Actually bailed out a day early in Trois Rivieres since we got a late start
after changing transmissions. I must say, I sure like the way the
Montgomery handles a lot better than the Cape Dory 33. And the cockpit in
the Montgomery is a WHOLE lot more comfortable than the cockpit on the CD
33. And give me a tiller over a wheel any day of the week.
Here's to a well-designed, well-built SMALL boat.
Here's to a Montgomery!
Tod
------------------------------
Message: 10
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats

I have not done this, but ShipShape TV used a two part foam to fill a void
in a fiberglass hard top. Obviously you have to make sure the foam does
not squeeze the deck apart. The drawback to this method is a two quart
supply costs $80 at West Marine, which makes two cubic feet of foam.
(Everclear brand). I found a reference to a $25 product at
jamestowndistributors.com but they only list a $75 two gallon product -
"Dura-Cote".
Has anyone used a foam?
steve
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington, KY
--- "Jon Martin" wrote:
>
>
>I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
>sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
>holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
>sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
>the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
------------------------------
Message: 11
To: stever@mail.saabnet.com,montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Hi Steve,
I don't know the size of your deck holes, but if they are just bolt or
screw holes that is a pretty simple operation.
If you have larger areas where the balsa is rotten (soft), then it's
another type of problem.
For small bolt and screw holes, I just went into the hole with a nail
bent in an "L" shape to get back to solid balsa.
Then I put some masking tape over the bottom of the hole to keep the
epoxy from dripping out.
Next I mixed up some epoxy, and tried as best I could to coat the inside
of the cavity with epoxy. Then I added filler to the remaining epoxy and
using a small plastic syringe injected the thickened epoxy into the
cavity till it was full (and a bit above the deck).
When it had hardened, I carefully shaved off the excess sticking above
the hole.
~~~~~~~~~~
If you have larger voids or spongy areas, one approach is to first define
the area.
Then you have to drill a series of holes to allow you to remove the
spongy balsa and get back to solid balsa all around the soft area.
Next it has to dry out thoroughly before you fill it again with thickened
epoxy.
I have used foam to build a better icebox in my big boat, but you have to
have sufficient area for it to grow and expand or else it will force your
deck apart as it grows in volume.
If you haven't seen the WEST Instruction Book, I recommend reading it.
WEST covers all sorts of repairs, and is a great "How to" book if you
haven't done this sort of work before.
Connie
M15 #400 LEPPO
------------------------------
Message: 12
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Is this anything like the DAP insulating foam you can find in cans at any
hardware store?
----- Original Message -----
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"

Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 9:54 AM
I have not done this, but ShipShape TV used a two part foam to fill a void
in a fiberglass hard top.
Obviously you have to make sure the foam does not squeeze the deck apart.
The drawback to this method is a
two quart supply costs $80 at West Marine, which makes two cubic feet of
foam. (Everclear brand). I found a
reference to a $25 product at jamestowndistributors.com but they only list a
$75 two gallon product -
"Dura-Cote".
Has anyone used a foam?
steve
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington, KY
--- "Jon Martin" wrote:
I repaired the centerboard problem on my M15, and have now had two great
sails. Thanks for the advice from this group. Now how about repairing
holes in the deck - I have epoxy and several fillers. Should I use some
sort of backing underneath the holes, and fill with thickened epoxy? Will
the thickened epoxy not sag without any backing? Thanks, Jon
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
montgomery_boats mailing list
montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 6, Issue 6
**********************************************
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

Go TopGo Bottom

Message 16 of 20

From: Randy Wirth [mailto:randy@caffeibis.com]
Subject: M_Boats: Keel Stop Bolt Repair
Date: Tue Oct 7 19:47:53 2003
-----------------------------------

Hello Randy and Tom. Yes, I had the same problem with my centerboard
stop bolt. The material it threaded into in the keel had turned to mush.
For lack of a better and easier option, I just drilled all the way
through and put in a stainless steel bolt. Drill the hole oversize, then
fill it with epoxy and drill the smaller hole through that to seal
moisture out of the keel. Use a long enough bolt so the tang doesn't
rest on the threaded part. You may have to cut off some extra beyond the
nut and washer. I used a nylon bushing type lock nut. At the time I
thought this would just be a temporary fix, but I've decided I like it
that way. It really makes changing the centerboard pendant a lot easier,
or dropping the centerboard for any reason.
Larry Yake
M17, #200
Tullamore
On Tue, 7 Oct 2003 13:30:49 -0700 "Smith, Tom"
writes:
Larry Yake has run both the bolt that fixes the cb in place (well really,
that's the way this bolt is configured, except there are recesses in the
keel to accomodate the bolt head and nut), plus the bolt that serves to
stop the cb tang, directly through the keel (correct me if I misrepresent
you Larry). It certainly seems like a common sense thing to do to me.
Any resulting disturbance to flow over the keel would in my mind be a
minor problem compared to the gains in ease of installation/repair.
If you get an M17 in a position to drop the cb into the cb trunk, you're
way beyond knockdown. I've hear this is a concern in a Potter, but have
never encountered this worry with an M17. It would be way down my list
of things to lose sleep over... t
Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle
Sandpoint, Idaho
M15-345, Chukar
M17-064, Unnamed
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 12:50 PM
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
I have a 1974 17' Montgomery,"Fore Play", that I need to replace the keel
boat on. I pulled the steel keel last spring and took it down to bare
metal and recoated and reinstalled it with a new rope and fittings. I
replaced the stainless stop bolt at that time but had it come lose last
weekend after a big blow. When I dived overboard to reinsert and tighten
it, there was nothing to thread into. I am trying to decide if I should
drill completely through and put a longer bolt with washer and locknut or
if I should try to epoxy in another nut within the keel housing. I would
be greatful for any input. Randy .Bearlake,Utah
P.S. Has anyone ever seen a need to retrofit a keel stop for when you
have a knockdown and roll over to prevent the keel from slaming back into
the slot and sinking the boat? I am not aware of this ever happening to
a M-17 but I know that this provision has been made for other small
pocket cruisers.
This message was scanned for viruses!!
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Go TopGo Bottom

Message 17 of 20

From: leyake at juno.com (Larry Yake)
Subject: M_Boats: New Old M-17
Date: Wed Oct 22 16:45:10 2003
-----------------------------------

Bill,
Your diver won't be able to see up into the trunk unless the tang broke
off the centerboard. It would normally be sitting on the stop bolt,
which will have the upper edge of the centerboard still in the trunk. If
the tang is broken, and the board is swinging free under the boat, then
your diver could tie a new pendant on for you and you can winch it up
before you pull her out.
Larry
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 12:09:25 -0700 Bill Sylvester
writes:
> Thanks guys,
>
> It sounds like the trailer trick might just work. I will
> have the
> diver check inside the trunk to see if there are obstructions in
> there
> before I try.
> When I get her home, I will use Tom's sawmoose idea to do
> the repairs.
>
> Bill and Darcy
> M-17 #279
> Endelig
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>
>

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Message 18 of 20

From: wmcsyl1 at cox.net (Bill Sylvester)
Subject: M_Boats: New Old M-17
Date: Wed Oct 22 17:37:21 2003
-----------------------------------

Larry,
The old M-17 has been sitting in her slip, unused, for over two years.
I am concerned that some marine critters have attached themselves to
the inside of the trunk. If they are hard shelled they might bind the
board. How much of the trunk is underwater? If it is only the first
couple of inches, there might not be enough growth to matter. We will
see.
Thanks,
Bill
On Wednesday, October 22, 2003, at 03:45 PM, Larry Yake wrote:
> Bill,
> Your diver won't be able to see up into the trunk unless the tang broke
> off the centerboard. It would normally be sitting on the stop bolt,
> which will have the upper edge of the centerboard still in the trunk.
> If
> the tang is broken, and the board is swinging free under the boat, then
> your diver could tie a new pendant on for you and you can winch it up
> before you pull her out.
> Larry
>
>
> On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 12:09:25 -0700 Bill Sylvester
> writes:
>> Thanks guys,
>>
>> It sounds like the trailer trick might just work. I will
>> have the
>> diver check inside the trunk to see if there are obstructions in
>> there
>> before I try.
>> When I get her home, I will use Tom's sawmoose idea to do
>> the repairs.
>>
>> Bill and Darcy
>> M-17 #279
>> Endelig
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>

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Message 19 of 20

From: martlexi at cpinternet.com (Martin Johnson)
Subject: M_Boats: Bilge Water
Date: Mon Nov 3 19:51:30 2003
-----------------------------------

greetings Bones!
" Has anyone installed a small access hole/port into the liner on their 17
to view/ pump water that has somehow found its way into that area? It seems
by tapping that the aft portion of the M17 keel is hollow. I would like to
check my M17 to see if there is indeed water trapped below the liner."
> Bones
I have done the exact procedure you are asking about, and it has given me
absolute confidence that my M17 will survive the Minnesota winters. follow
this link for full info...
http://msog.org/how-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfm
While winterizing, I was able to inspect the keel sump in my boat to check
for any water penetration. In the past my boat has leaked for the
keel/trunk joint as well as the bottom gudgeon. Both leaks deposited into
this normally inaccessible keel area. A section of garden hose duct taped to
a shop vac can suck out any water, and I added 50% antifreeze solution for
antifreeze as well as corrosion protection. The easiest way to gain this
function is to drill a hole along the trunk that matches a plumbers' plug to
seal it during normal use. I'll gladly help with any specifics if I am
able.
good luck,
Martin
Duluth, MN
Sunflower, M17 1976 #218

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Message 20 of 20

From: southisland2 at earthlink.net (MC Carpenter)
Subject: M_Boats: Re: drawing
Date: Mon Nov 24 01:31:58 2003
-----------------------------------

<001001c3aa29$fba93fa0$83084bab@D60D0Q21>

I think I have the idea how to make a new drawing, it will be ready soon, its learning curve. You can buy blocks of almost any of plastic from companies like "Port Plastics" or "Piper Plastics", I think they have a web sight, I know they have a complete catalog on CD. I buy rods and plate Teflon and make bearings and any thing part I need that will better frictionless. Delrin comes in two main forms, one is especially for any kind of load bearing and will outlive the boat in salt water. Just hose it off . It can be readily machine with simple wood tools and but is best done on a lath or mill.
Until I get this drawing together,I now have a program called autosketch which may help. I will try to explain.
The existing board (old) can be center of effort marked and the area calculated. It comes to about 2.65 sq ft..
The depth remains the same, the width will be adjusted according to the area to match the existing center of lateral area . This can be done several ways but cost can be used to keep the number of ways limited.
For me and I am not concerned with hitting something, so I can use the simple screw method in the new board.
The new board will smaller in the truck but the same size when extended. A screw jack principal is used with the nuts buried in the lead weight. the round lead plug is inside the Teflon foil, which inch idea the trunk. it slides up and down on two easily cut to shape Teflon bushing the same foil shape as the board (dagger style). It would be wise at this point to use a stainless steel steer as this is already availed form trailer jacks, only the nuts an are special because they are buried in the lead weight.
Most parts can be made with simple tools and it easy to remove for cleaning or any repair. The top of the screw handle to fits through the top of the centerboard trunk. BUT again I will try to build a small model first.
The excess space in the trunk casing can be filled in, So water has no access to the iron ballast from the outside anyway. Silicone and bronze are great choices but are very expensive their cost could go as high as $1400.00. The difference in weight from old centerboard to new sliding board becomes the keel bulb, approx 61 lbs on each side. Its all a learning curve right now. What do you think of adding a soft rubber flap to either side of the board to wipe the board as it goes up and down.
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M_Boats: CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
M_Boats: CB slot rebuild - up close & personal!
Marking The Waterline
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(Continued next column)		 M_Boats: Deck hole repairs
M_Boats: Deck hole repairs
Deck hole repairs
Deck hole repairs
Deck hole repairs
M_Boats: Keel Stop Bolt Repair
M_Boats: New Old M-17
M_Boats: New Old M-17
M_Boats: Bilge Water
M_Boats: Re: drawing