Message 1 of 28

David,
My centerboard dropped on me several years ago. It was relatively
simple to punch out the pin. It goes out either side. Mine also
exhibited aged cracks. I had it repaired at a fiberglass shop but when
I was reinstalling it my grip on the line slipped and it dropped hard
and broke again. I took it back to the shop (rather red faced) and this
time had them enlarge the area to be replaced and install a 6 inch eye
bolt. The centerboard now pivots on a stainless steel eye imbedded in
the fiberglass which, I like to think, spreads the stress to more than
just that corner of the board.
The cockpit drains into the centerboard housing. Flushing with lots of
water while the centerboard is down should eventually get ride of any
accumulation of mud trapped in the box shaped housing through which the
drain flows. Once your remove your centerboard you could get at the
underside of the drain. It isn't a big opening and it can get partially
blocked. Inside the cabin, the bilge does not drain. What you are
finding is probably the accumulation of years of dirt - or the grunge
deposited through a leak at the backside of the cockpit drain housing.
Slapping some fiberglass (or 1,000MPH tape) around the back of that box
should stop the leak. A mirror will help you analyze what is going on
back there.
You should have two clam cleats on the starboard side of your mast under
the main hallard jam cleat. There should also be two lengths of line
fixed to the port side of the mast. The shorter one runs through the
eye on the underside of your gooseneck and clamps off in one of the clam
cleats. That's your cunningham. The longer line runs through the tack
reef point grommet and ties off with a slip knot on the starboard side
of the sail until you need to reef. Then it serves as your tack and
holds the mainsail in reef by locking into the other clam sheet.

Message 2 of 28

--- David Rossi wrote:
> Anyone else had to replace the centerboard?
> Suggestions?
I lost my centerboard due the pin coming out while
sailing. The pin actually came loose due to
trailering vibrations and I didn't notice it. You can
find my used Centerboard on the bottom of Nantucket
sound about half way between Hyannis Ma and
Nantucket:) If you find it you can keep it.
I obtained new board via Bob Egg but discovered that
it wouldn't quite fit into the well. It turns out the
older M15s were built with iron as part of the keel.
The Iron will swell with time probably due to internal
rust. My M15 is #310 built in 1984. I had to grind
the gel coat off both sides of the CB to get it to
fit. I made a long handled gauge to move around the
centerboard well to find the swelling so that I new
where the tight spots were.
I lightly epoxy-y+ied the pin in and it vibrated out
again. I covered the ends of the pin with boat life
and it came out again. I finally covered both end of
the pin with sail repair tape and the pin is staying
in.
> drain...right? Hers is full of
> black dirt. How do you get in there to clean it
> out?
I use a shop vac to retrieve lost items that find
their way to the bilge. It is a wet/dry vac so when I
have spilled water in there by accident I use it to
suck the water out.
So... dry vac for valuables, add water, stir well and
suck it up:)
>
> Is there any documentation describing how the
> mainsheet is meant to be
> rigged? I think I had it right but there were a few
> blocks unused on the boom.
On older boats it is not unusual for someone to have
changed the rigging so answers to this may not make
sense.
I believe my boat has the original equipment with a
rope traveler and two blocks at the traveler end, one
used by the traveler and one for the mainsheet. The
mainsheet ties to a becket?(thingy)at the end of the
boom, goes through the block on the traveler and up to
the block on the end of the boom, through the block
about mid boom and down to the mainsheet cleat just in
front of the cabin entrance.

> Thanks,
Doug Kelch
"Seas the Day" M15 #310
__________________________________________________
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Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
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Message 3 of 28

--- Doug Kelch wrote:
> Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 16:50:20 -0800 (PST)
> From: Doug Kelch
> Subject: Re: M_Boats: First test sail - guess I'll
> be buying a centerboard
> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
>
> --- David Rossi wrote:
> > Anyone else had to replace the centerboard?
> > Suggestions?
> I lost my centerboard due the pin coming out while
> sailing. The pin actually came loose due to
> trailering vibrations and I didn't notice it. You
> can
> find my used Centerboard on the bottom of Nantucket
> sound about half way between Hyannis Ma and
> Nantucket:) If you find it you can keep it.
>
> I obtained new board via Bob Egg but discovered that
> it wouldn't quite fit into the well. It turns out
> the
> older M15s were built with iron as part of the keel.
>
> The Iron will swell with time probably due to
> internal
> rust. My M15 is #310 built in 1984. I had to grind
> the gel coat off both sides of the CB to get it to
> fit. I made a long handled gauge to move around the
> centerboard well to find the swelling so that I new
> where the tight spots were.
> I lightly epoxy-y+ied the pin in and it vibrated out
> again. I covered the ends of the pin with boat life
> and it came out again. I finally covered both end
> of
> the pin with sail repair tape and the pin is staying
> in.
>
>
> > drain...right? Hers is full of
> > black dirt. How do you get in there to clean it
> > out?
> I use a shop vac to retrieve lost items that find
> their way to the bilge. It is a wet/dry vac so when
> I
> have spilled water in there by accident I use it to
> suck the water out.
> So... dry vac for valuables, add water, stir well
> and
> suck it up:)
>
> >
> > Is there any documentation describing how the
> > mainsheet is meant to be
> > rigged? I think I had it right but there were a
> few
> > blocks unused on the boom.
> On older boats it is not unusual for someone to have
> changed the rigging so answers to this may not make
> sense.
> I believe my boat has the original equipment with a
> rope traveler and two blocks at the traveler end,
> one
> used by the traveler and one for the mainsheet. The
> mainsheet ties to a becket?(thingy)at the end of the
> boom, goes through the block on the traveler and up
> to
> the block on the end of the boom, through the block
> about mid boom and down to the mainsheet cleat just
> in
> front of the cabin entrance.
>
> > Thanks,
> Doug Kelch
> "Seas the Day" M15 #310
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com

Message 4 of 28

Doug Kelch wrote:
> I lightly epoxy-y+ied the pin in and it vibrated out
> again. I covered the ends of the pin with boat life
> and it came out again. I finally covered both end of
> the pin with sail repair tape and the pin is staying
> in.
>
A friend made a new centerboard for me out of 1/2" plate steel this past
summer. A new board ordered from Bob E. didn't fit into the slot of my
1981 M15 (the board was later passed on to Doug who made his previously
mentioned modifications). Rather than epoxy the pin in when I installed
the board, my friend tapped the ends of the pin, inserted flat head
allen bolts through 1" diameter stainless caps and Loctited the bolts
into the ends of the pin. The caps were machined so that the head of
the bolts fit flush inside of them. The result is a one inch diameter
by 1/8th inch thick disc on either side of my keel. If I need to remove
the pin in the future, I will only have to lightly heat the bolts to
break the Loctite and remove them.
Dale Williams
"Sophie Mae" M15 #185

Message 5 of 28

>Rather than epoxy the pin in when I installed the board, my friend tapped
the ends of the pin, inserted flat head allen bolts through 1" diameter
stainless caps and Loctited the bolts into the ends of the pin. The caps
were machined so that the head of the bolts fit flush inside of them. The
result is a one inch diameter by 1/8th inch thick disc on either side of my
keel. If I need to remove
the pin in the future, I will only have to lightly heat the bolts to break
the Loctite and remove them.
Dale,
Great idea. You've actually built the better moustrap. I haven't had
any problem with my centerboard, but if the pivot pin ever needs repair or
replacement I'll use my little Unimat lathe to fabricate a pin like the one
you described.
Joe Kidd M15 #207 "Poco A Poco"

Message 6 of 28

References:
Message-ID: <005701c1c13b$1ea8e160$6401a8c0@john>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset=^iso-8859-1^
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By way of procrastinating on paying work, here's a progress report on =
M-15 #412, ^Chimpanzee.^
Don't worry, Doug, I've recorded all of this in detail with the digital =
camera.
1. Substantial rerigging. I've changed out all of the halyards and the =
topping lift, replaced the masthead fitting, and installed roller =
furling. On the boom I've added a vang and a new outhaul system. I was =
able to find a 0.75oz reacher/drifter in A+ condition at =
http://www.baconsails.com/ for $200. It will set from a halyard just =
below the masthead for light air work. I rigged the boat in the parking =
lot to locate the proper sheet leads for the new sails; I'll install =
new jib sheet tracks this weekend. The new mainsail should be finished =
today.
2. Faired and refinished the rudder. The original rudder was in good =
shape save for some dings, and a few scabby coats of varnish that =
appeared to have been applied with a broom. I carefully sanded it =
smooth, filled the dings, and I'm building up coats of varnish. I dig =
the kick-up rudder design of the M-15.
3. I'm working on a screened companionway insert for hot summer nights.
4. This weekend I hope to hoist the boat off the trailer with the =
forklift to remove the centerboard for refurbishment. I might also get =
to the slow work of compounding the gelcoat and renewing the teak trim.
5. New outboard, hurray! Chimpanzee came with a rattly old 2.2 =
Mercury. I've never had any luck with Mercuries, especially old ones. =
I carried it next door to the outboard repair shop, thinking that if it =
could be made to run, I could at least sell it in the newspaper. But =
wait! On the floor of the repair shop was a 9-month old, twice-used 2HP =
Honda 4-stroke! The proprietor said I could have it for $400 plus the =
trade-in on the old Mercury. That was just too good to pass up, so I =
plunked down my much-abused credit card. Such luck! I hate engines on =
sailboats in general, preferring to sail when possible and to row when =
not. But in my opinion the Swiss-watch quality and cleanliness of the =
4-stroke Honda takes a lot of the sting out of having an engine on a =
small boat.
Cheers,
John=20
Chesapeake Light Craft
The Best Boats You Can Build
http://www.clcboats.com
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Message 7 of 28

References: <20020405205908.XISD15826.rwcrmhc54.attbi.com@rwcrwbc56>
Message-ID: <3CAE312C.3F4EBD55@brainerd.net>
Steve:
Been there, done that. I have M15 # 185, also a 1981 model, which I
purchased on consignment from a dealer near Minneapolis. On her maiden
voyage, we pushed off from the dock, sheeted in the main and loosened
the centerboard pennant. The pennant didn't move, and I now laugh to
think that I actually dove under the boat trying to unwedge the board
for 45 minutes ( I came up for air several times). Turns out that
centerboards made for M15's of our vintage were made with iron shot
molded into them. Eventually moisture invades and causes the shot to
corrode and swell, thus wedging the board in the slot. The newer boards
are made with lead shot to avoid this problem. The new boards will not
fit our older boats well. I ordered a new one from Bob Eeg and found
that it was too thick (wide?) to fit into the slot. I was told that
iron shot may also have been cast into the keel around the slot as well,
and thought that the tight fit may have been due to the centerboard
trunk swelling as well. Another M15 owner, Doug Kelch had lost his
board when his pin came out, so I shipped it to him. The board was also
too tight for his boat, and I believe he ended up grinding off a little
of the gelcoat to make it fit. I had a friend with a machine shop make
me a new board out of 3/4 inch plate steel which I primed and painted.
It fits into the slot with no problem.
I hesitate to tell you how I got the old board out, as I am afraid it
may sound like ^the Three Stooges do boat repair^ to the more skilled
members of the group! I first tried sliding a piece of re-bar down the
pennant hole until it rested on the top of the centerboard, and then
pounding on the bar with a mallet. Nothing. The bottom of the board
was out about an inch and a half, so I drilled a hole through it and
inserted a clevis pin. Then I put a steel bar through the pin and
wedged each end of the bar under the frame of the trailer. Then we
lifted the boat with some straps and two tractors, hoping that the
weight of the trailer would pull the board down. I wish I had pictures
of my boat hanging in the air with the trailer still attached. Next we
had three of the farmer's burley borscht -fattened sons add their weight
to the trailer (another 600 lbs, at least). After scratching my balding
head and enjoying a malt beverage, the trailer was till hanging in the
air. I ended up putting a plank against the hull next to the keel, and
putting a car jack between the plank and the trailer, and jacking the
board out of the slot. The board did not give up easily. After some
godawful sphincter-puckering sounds, lots of sweat and probably the same
curses you have tried, the mangled board, having given its all, finally
popped out of the slot, amen. Hint: don't lay under the trailer if you
do this.
Hopefully, other members of the group will have a simpler solution, but
if all else fails, this might work for you. Good luck!
Dale Williams
Staples, MN
M15 #185 ^Sophie Mae^
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Fri Apr 5 16:29:05 2002

Message 8 of 28

In-Reply-To: <001401c1dd74$9ab543c0$5d02f80c@steve>
Message-ID: <20020406152151.13779.qmail@web13506.mail.yahoo.com>
Steve,
My comments are below your observations.
--- ^Steve McClellan (at Home)^
wrote:
> Now, I can raise and lower the board all day, within
> an inch of full retracted position, but if I retract
> it that LAST INCH (which I would need to do to put
> it on the trailer) it gets stuck, won't come down
> without prying again.
The new board I got from would also not go up the
last inch without getting stuck. My M15 is #310, 1984
and believe there has been some swelling on the
centerboard trunk near the top. I did have to grind
off a little gelcoat with belt sander on both sides to
get it to fit.
Unfortunately I took a little too much off and it
gets wedged in somehow if I trailer it with the
centerboard weight on the pendant. If I trailer with
the the pendant loose there is no problem.
Clean the well out first and if it still sticks,
grind away, repaint any exposed metal from the
grinding.
> I'm wondering -- is that what most people have for a
> pivot pin? Or was mine replaced at one time,
> perhaps persuant to some damage?
The oringinal M15s came with a stainless steel pin
that is just some gelcoat away from the surface on
both sides. The pin will vibrate through the gel coat
if you do a lot of trailering. Since my old board
never retracted all the way this put some of the boat
weight on the centerboard pin while trailering. I
think this contributed a lot to the loosening of the
pin.
The pin on mine is orginal even though I lost the
board while sailing. The pin was only in the hole by
an inch when I swam under the boat. I epoxied it in
and it came loose, I used boat life to dampen the
vibration effects and it came loose. I now use sail
repair tape over both sides of the CB trunk and have
not had the problem.
A nut on the end of the bolt works fine, just adds
a little drag.

> I'm just planning to remove the pin and drop the
> board out (gently of course, with due regard for
> it's weight). I'm not expecting any surprises.
> Should I? For you all who have done this, am I
> forgetting something?
If the boat is too high off the ground you can't rest
the aft end of the board on the ground while you line
up the pin to replace it. It's amazing how heavy an
awkward shaped 35 lb board gets when trying for
alignment. The weight is a ways back from the hole
you are trying to look trough.
The corallary is that if the boat is too low to the
ground you cannot tilt the board out of the slot. The
rear of the board is around 18 inchs + tall.
Doug Kelch
^Seas the Day^ M15 #310
Formerly of Peoria, Ill
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sat Apr 6 16:28:35 2002

Message 9 of 28

Message-ID: <20020408150141.BLRT3676.rwcrmhc52.attbi.com@rwcrwbc55>
Has anyone had a good look at their centerbord slot or
knows how it's constructed? Maybe this is a question for
Bob or Jerry:
My question regards the joint just inside the lip of the
centerboard slot, where the inside wall of the trunk
meets the outer hull: of what does this joint consist?
Does it ever require any maintenance?
On my 1981 M15, there appears to be a joint consisting of
some kind of resilient caulk, rather than fiberglass or
epoxy, which is what I suppose I expected?
Is this normal?
I haven't found anything in the archives that refers
specifically to this joint, but if it is not fiberglassed
then should it not require maintenance from time to time?
I admit I have no evidence of trouble there -- unless the
existence of caulk there is itself evidence of a previous
repair. But as long as I have the boat up on stands, and
the centerboard out, it seems like a good time to make
sure everthing down there is hunky-dory.
--
Steve McClellan
1981 M15 #152
Evanston, Illiois
stevemc35@attbi.com
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Mon Apr 8 16:12:17 2002

Message 10 of 28

Message-ID: <191.5103462.29e337ba@aol.com>
In a message dated 4/8/02 8:04:04 AM, stevemc35@attbi.com writes:
<< Has anyone had a good look at their centerbord slot or
knows how it's constructed? Maybe this is a question for
Bob or Jerry:
My question regards the joint just inside the lip of the
centerboard slot, where the inside wall of the trunk
meets the outer hull: of what does this joint consist?
Does it ever require any maintenance?
On my 1981 M15, there appears to be a joint consisting of
some kind of resilient caulk, rather than fiberglass or
epoxy, which is what I suppose I expected?
Is this normal?
I haven't found anything in the archives that refers
specifically to this joint, but if it is not fiberglassed
then should it not require maintenance from time to time?
I admit I have no evidence of trouble there -- unless the
existence of caulk there is itself evidence of a previous
repair. But as long as I have the boat up on stands, and
the centerboard out, it seems like a good time to make
sure everthing down there is hunky-dory.
--
Steve McClellan
1981 M15 #152 >>
Hi Steve,
I spent the last hour on Keith's web page looking at the *old* archives (pre
2001), and finally found my old post from 1999 regarding this condition. I
am including it below.
If your opening is similar to that of my description below, you might want to
undertake the process I describe. Given that the products I mention were
purchased in 1998, you might want to check with Interlux to see if anything
has changed or been renamed.
One thing that may not be clear from this early post (I sent some follow-up
posts) is that my primary reason for taking on this work was to prevent water
incursion at the exposed laminate edges of the hull opening. I was not
having any problem with the centerboard or trunk.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
Scott Grometer
M15 #478, ^bebe^
Original posting, 1999:

Message 11 of 28

In-Reply-To: <20020413204402.TZLM24238.mtiwmhc21.worldnet.att.net@[32.100.64.148]>
Message-ID: <20020414135332.51121.qmail@web13506.mail.yahoo.com>
Cherri,
I had a spare pin. If I can find it you can have it.
I am convinced the pin virbrates out while trailering.
I trailer about 3 - 4k miles every year. The hole
for the pin on my boat is probably larger than normal
due to wear. I keep the pin in useing a piece of sail
repair tape on both sides.
Thanks
Doug
--- Mark Pavuk wrote:
> Dale,
> I am wondering if there is any problem with just
> using a bolt, washers,
> and a nut that locks in ( I think I am using the
> right terms - my mechanical
> knowledge isn't much). My friend who is working on
> the boat for me wants to
> do a quick fix for the season and then really work
> on the boat next winter,
> so he wondered why one would need to use the epoxy.
> Wouldn't water get in
> there anyway? I found a bolt at West Marine for
> $5.00 that is what they call
> marine grade stainless steel. It fit perfectly
> (3/8^) and I was going to cut
> off the head and the threads to make it a pin but am
> now wondering if that
> is necessary.
> Cherri
> ----------
> >From: ^Honshells^
> >To:
> >Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin
> >Date: Sat, Apr 13, 2002, 2:06 PM
> >
>
> >
> >Dale, I'd love to see that pic on the MSOG website.
> Thanks, Craig
> >
> >p.s. Did you bevel the leading edge of your new
> steel board/do any
> >^airfoil^ shaping of any kind?
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: ^Dale Williams^
> >To:
> >Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:39 PM
> >Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin
> >
> >
> >Cherri:
> >
> >I had a centerboard made from steel and will want
> to drop it out for
> >inspection from time to time. Since I don't want
> to monkey around with
> >epoxy
> >each time, I cut a pin to the width of the keel and
> had the ends tapped.
> >Allen bolts inserted through caps screw into each
> end of the pin and hold in
> >place. John, who made my board and the pin set-up
> said that he would be
> >glad
> >to make pins for anyone who was interested for ( I
> would have to check with
> >him in case I am remembering wrong) $20, shipping
> included. If you are
> >interested I can take a picture of my keel with the
> pin in it and post it on
> >the web for you.
> >
> >Dale Williams
> >Staples, MN
> >M-15 #185 ^Sophie Mae^
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
>
>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
>
>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>
> _______________________________________________
>
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
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From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sun Apr 14 16:58:23 2002

Message 12 of 28

Message-ID: <20020415021203.BIKY28245.mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net@[32.100.64.240]>
Thanks, Doug. If you do find it, let me know; I'd be glad to pay postage or
whatever. We are trying the bolt method for now, just to get the boat in the
water.
Cherri
----------
>From: Doug Kelch
>To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
>Subject: Re: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin
>Date: Sun, Apr 14, 2002, 9:53 AM
>
>Cherri,
>
>I had a spare pin. If I can find it you can have it.
>
>I am convinced the pin virbrates out while trailering.
> I trailer about 3 - 4k miles every year. The hole
>for the pin on my boat is probably larger than normal
>due to wear. I keep the pin in useing a piece of sail
>repair tape on both sides.
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug
>--- Mark Pavuk wrote:
>> Dale,
>> I am wondering if there is any problem with just
>> using a bolt, washers,
>> and a nut that locks in ( I think I am using the
>> right terms - my mechanical
>> knowledge isn't much). My friend who is working on
>> the boat for me wants to
>> do a quick fix for the season and then really work
>> on the boat next winter,
>> so he wondered why one would need to use the epoxy.
>> Wouldn't water get in
>> there anyway? I found a bolt at West Marine for
>> $5.00 that is what they call
>> marine grade stainless steel. It fit perfectly
>> (3/8^) and I was going to cut
>> off the head and the threads to make it a pin but am
>> now wondering if that
>> is necessary.
>> Cherri
>> ----------
>> >From: ^Honshells^
>> >To:
>> >Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin
>> >Date: Sat, Apr 13, 2002, 2:06 PM
>> >
>>
>> >
>> >Dale, I'd love to see that pic on the MSOG website.
>> Thanks, Craig
>> >
>> >p.s. Did you bevel the leading edge of your new
>> steel board/do any
>> >^airfoil^ shaping of any kind?
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: ^Dale Williams^
>> >To:
>> >Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:39 PM
>> >Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin
>> >
>> >
>> >Cherri:
>> >
>> >I had a centerboard made from steel and will want
>> to drop it out for
>> >inspection from time to time. Since I don't want
>> to monkey around with
>> >epoxy
>> >each time, I cut a pin to the width of the keel and
>> had the ends tapped.
>> >Allen bolts inserted through caps screw into each
>> end of the pin and hold in
>> >place. John, who made my board and the pin set-up
>> said that he would be
>> >glad
>> >to make pins for anyone who was interested for ( I
>> would have to check with
>> >him in case I am remembering wrong) $20, shipping
>> included. If you are
>> >interested I can take a picture of my keel with the
>> pin in it and post it on
>> >the web for you.
>> >
>> >Dale Williams
>> >Staples, MN
>> >M-15 #185 ^Sophie Mae^
>> >
>> >
>> >_______________________________________________
>>
>>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>> >
>> >
>> >_______________________________________________
>>
>>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>>
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From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Mon Apr 15 04:21:46 2002

Message 13 of 28

Message-ID:
Doug
a simple preventative solution, I like it.
>>> doug_kelch@yahoo.com 04/14/02 08:53AM >>>
Cherri,
I had a spare pin. If I can find it you can have it.
I am convinced the pin virbrates out while trailering.
I trailer about 3 - 4k miles every year. The hole
for the pin on my boat is probably larger than normal
due to wear. I keep the pin in useing a piece of sail
repair tape on both sides.
Thanks
Doug
--- Mark Pavuk wrote:
> Dale,
> I am wondering if there is any problem with just
> using a bolt, washers,
> and a nut that locks in ( I think I am using the
> right terms - my mechanical
> knowledge isn't much). My friend who is working on
> the boat for me wants to
> do a quick fix for the season and then really work
> on the boat next winter,
> so he wondered why one would need to use the epoxy.
> Wouldn't water get in
> there anyway? I found a bolt at West Marine for
> $5.00 that is what they call
> marine grade stainless steel. It fit perfectly
> (3/8^) and I was going to cut
> off the head and the threads to make it a pin but am
> now wondering if that
> is necessary.
> Cherri
> ----------
> >From: ^Honshells^
> >To:
> >Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin
> >Date: Sat, Apr 13, 2002, 2:06 PM
> >
>=20
> >
> >Dale, I'd love to see that pic on the MSOG website.
> Thanks, Craig
> >
> >p.s. Did you bevel the leading edge of your new
> steel board/do any
> >^airfoil^ shaping of any kind?
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: ^Dale Williams^
> >To:
> >Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:39 PM
> >Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin
> >
> >
> >Cherri:
> >
> >I had a centerboard made from steel and will want
> to drop it out for
> >inspection from time to time. Since I don't want
> to monkey around with
> >epoxy
> >each time, I cut a pin to the width of the keel and
> had the ends tapped.
> >Allen bolts inserted through caps screw into each
> end of the pin and hold in
> >place. John, who made my board and the pin set-up
> said that he would be
> >glad
> >to make pins for anyone who was interested for ( I
> would have to check with
> >him in case I am remembering wrong) $20, shipping
> included. If you are
> >interested I can take a picture of my keel with the
> pin in it and post it on
> >the web for you.
> >
> >Dale Williams
> >Staples, MN
> >M-15 #185 ^Sophie Mae^
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
>
>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats=20
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
>
>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats=20
>=20
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From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Mon Apr 15 15:19:02 2002

Message 14 of 28

Message-ID: <20020423204354.FJPC1233.rwcrmhc53.attbi.com@rwcrwbc55>
For Jerry Montgomery:
Jerry, way back in August of 1998, you responded to a
message from Connie regarding water leaking in on his
M15:
You wrote:
^it could be leaking thru the joint between the deck
and the top of the cb trunk. On the very early 15's the
liner came up almost to the bottom of the deck and
bonding the deck to the actual top of the trunk (not the
liner) was difficult to do well and even more difficult
to inspect. ... Contact me for a solution after
determining the problem.
Jerry^
I've pretty much narrowed down my leaking problem to this
joint--I've got the centerboard out and the boat up on
stands, and I can see up there to the joint real well; it
appears that it may be slightly misaligned,
and possibly incompletely sealed.--I can see it well, but
it's going to be damn hard to reach. If you have any
hints or suggestions for repairing this joint (as you
intimate in your note) I'd be really grateful to hear
them.
Thanks for your help!
Steve McClellan
M15 #152
Chicago Area
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Tue Apr 23 22:13:32 2002

Message 15 of 28

Message-ID: <20020424.112255.-109967.0.chbenneck@juno.com>
Hi Steve,
I presume that you have located your leak and that it is at the aft end
of the centerboard trunk / cockpit molding joint, which is where I found
my leak to be.
I localized the leak by pressurizing the cabin of the boat using my shop
vac. I made styrofoam hatch boards and sealed the edges with duct tape.
The vacuum hose (in the blow mode) was inserted into a hole in the
styrofoam. Then I let the vac run for a few minutes to build up pressure
inside the boat, before painting the inside of the C/B area with a
detergent solution.
The result was that the leak area was blowing bubbles. Voila, that's the
exact spot!
You are correct about it being ^difficult^ to reach.
The first thing you have to remove is the teak board that is over the C/B
drain slot to give you more access to the area.
That is easily done: just drill out the teak plugs, then with the screw
holes clear, put in a long Philips No 2 screwdriver and remove the screws
holding the teak board in place.
Now with a bit more access room, you can probably look at, but can't
reach the aft corner.
The only way to get access is to cut out a portion of the aft end of the
C/B slot. Then you have working space!
Save the piece / pieces. You'll want to epoxy them back in place when
you are finished repairing the leak.
At that point I used a DREMEL grinder to open up the leaking joint area;
and then mixed up an epoxy/filler mixture (WEST products) and forced the
mixture into the opened slot. I also made sure that I covered the
adjacent areas as well.
With the leak area repaired, I then gave it another pressure test with
the shop vac; painting the repaired area with detergent suds; and this
time there were no more bubbles.
Then you just epoxy your cut out pieces back in place: replace the teak
board; put in new teak plugs; and refinish the teak plug surfaces. I
just used a toothpick and spread a bit of epoxy over the surface.
My boat has been bone dry ever since; the way it should be!
Connie
M15 #400 LEPPO
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From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Wed Apr 24 17:25:22 2002

Message 16 of 28

References: <8F632706-8600-11D6-B0D4-00039358A95E@mac.com>
Message-ID: <002c01c21a64$40e81ac0$69fe010a@ajrogers>
^that little winch really has to strain to get the board up.^ Yeah, so does
mine . . . Oh, you wrote WINCH, not wench . . . sorry . . .
^that little winch really has to strain to get the board up. has anyone
improved or reinforced this area?^, I'm guessing you mean the winch mount
itself: I have what I think is a related question. Has anyone
improved/reinforced the hole through which the centerboard (line, rope,
halyard?) rope passes? I was thinking of a brass or stainless ^collet^
inserted where the old plastic one failed (I imagine the plastic collet
originally lasted about a week: It was sliding freely up and down the
centerboard rope when I bought my boat). I have a ^fiberglass guy^ making
various improvements/repairs on my 17' and he thinks it would be best to
just heavily reinforce the hole. He doesn't think I'd gain much by
inserting a metal collet.
Thanks!
----- Original Message -----

Message 17 of 28

Message 18 of 28

Message 19 of 28

Message 20 of 28

Message 21 of 28

Message 22 of 28

Message 23 of 28

Hi Bud,
I can=92t say I have done this, but this is my idea for how to proceed.
First make a template of the centerboard from something like corrugated car=
dboard, thin plywood or masonite. Next, drill a small diameter hole throug=
h one side of the keel, and part way into the other side of the keel. Then=
, put the template in the slot and drill through it. Check to see if the t=
emplate pivots up and down. If it does, great. If not, patch the small ho=
les and start over. By not drilling all the way through to the other side =
of the keel, you have only one cosmetic repair.
Once the holes are in the right place, drill out the holes in the keel and =
use the template to locate the hole in the centerboard. Use something to b=
ack up the exit holes to prevent chipping. I would do what ever it takes t=
o get a drill bit long enough to go through the keel so the hole can be dri=
lled from one side. That way, you could be certain that the pivot pin will=
go through both sides of the keel.
I hope to go to the lake this afternoon. :) If so, I should be able to get =
you a location for where the pin goes through the keel. There is putty app=
lied to a hole on both sides of my keel from a previous owner's repair. I =
do not know the size of the pin but I can make a guess at it.
As far as the stop pin, I think that is associated with the keel of the M-1=
7. There is a stopper knot in the M-15 pennant. I=92ll try to remember to=
measure the line also.
Good luck,
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington, KY
--- Bud Holzschuh wrote:
>
>I have just acquired a 1983 Montgomery 15. Boat is in
>fine condition with one exception - the centerboard is
>not installed and there appears to be no way to do so
>!!!
>
> (snip)
>
>There is a hole in the board for the pennant line but
>no hole for the pivot !! It appears to be glassed over
>(quite professionally!) There is also no hole in the
>centerboard trunk to hold a pin and no hole for a stop
>pin either! (Guy just couldn't stop glassing!)
>
>So here's the problem - the holes must be re-drilled
>-- but where??? Seems like some precise measurements
>are needed for both centerboard and trunk holes. Also
>what size bolt/pin ?? What size line is used for the
>pennant? Looks like 1/4 to 5/16 from the pennant
>hole(s).
>
> Also I have heard about a stop pin. Necessary?
>function?
>
>Any help muchly appreciated
>
>Cheers
>Bud Holzschuh
>
>

Message 24 of 28

Bud,
There is a blob of putty on my keel where it was repaired. The hole may be as large as 3/4 of an inch.
The center of the blob is 16 and 1/4 inches back from where the keel meets the hull. I held my rule along the top of the keel.
The center of the blob is 2 and 5/8 inches below the hull. I made this measurement from where the hull is flat, that is above the fillet between the keel and hull.
The center of the blob is 6 and 7/8 inches from the bottom of the keel. HOWEVER, the bottom is really not all the way to the bottom. I took my carpenters rule, and twisted the end segment so that it was at a 90 degree angle. I held this section flat against the vertical face of the keel, and held the rest of the rule up against the curved bottom of the keel. I moved the slide out to the center of the blob. I then transferred the setting to a note pad, and measured the distance to the mark on the pad.
I forgot to measure the line size.
Let us know how things go.
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington,KY
--- Bud Holzschuh wrote:
>
>I have just acquired a 1983 Montgomery 15. Boat is in
>fine condition with one exception - the centerboard is
>not installed and there appears to be no way to do so
>!!!

Message 25 of 28

Hi All
For those of you who remember I'm the guy trying to
install a Montgomery 15 centerboard (hull #256) that
had been removed from the boat and completely glassed
over (closing the pivot pin hole).
Well - today I jacked up the boat, drove out the 1/2"
ss pin (good condition) from the centerboard trunk and
proceeded to try to fit the c.b. in the trunk.
Q: When the c.b. is correctly installed - I am
assuming that it fully retracts inside the cb trunk so
that none of the boats weight reasts on the c.b when
on the trailer. Is this correct?
If so, then I have a problem because when I install
the c.b so that it is fully in the trunk the pivot pin
passes just in front of the board. (barely touches the
board)
I am assuming that when the c.b. was repaired/glassed
over, a part of the board near the pivot pin hole had
been damaged/removed and was not replaced!
If all the above assumptions are correct - I am going
to have to add on to the top of the c.b. I am capable
of doing the glassing but would need a pattern.
Does anybody have their c.b. out of the boat that
would be willing to send me a tracing ?? In return I
offer free dockage (transient)on East Bay (part of St.
Andrews Bay) including water and power! (About 15
miles east of Panama City, Florida on ICW)
(Actually this offer is good to anyone - just email
me at schuh8@yahoo.com to arrange.)
Thanks in advance
Bud
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Message 26 of 28

Bud
I sense a problem.
First, your centerboard pin should be 3/8" not 1/2".
But thats not a serious thing.
Your centerboard should have a 3/8 inch hole drilled in the forward
upper section of the board when you stand the board in the up
position. This hole should be centered on the raduis (about 1 inch from
the edge) and should be 3/8 inch. (1/2 inch would work if thats the
pin size your stuck with).
When you say you drove out the 1/2 inch pin, I thought you said earlier
that you couldn't find the hole. Are you saying you found the hold by
looking inside the trunk; saw the pin and drilled through enough to
tap it out with a long bolt or punch?
You don't "Fit" the centerboard, you simply move it into position and
slide the pin through the side of the keel, thru the hole in the board and
continue thru to the otherside of the keel.
The aft end of the board will then pivot down to make a nice
triangle shape (see photos of the Montgomery 17 at montgomeryboats.com).
Later
Bob
http://msog.org/models/m23new/m23_thumbs.cfm
Bud Holzschuh wrote:
>Hi All
>
>For those of you who remember I'm the guy trying to
>install a Montgomery 15 centerboard (hull #256) that
>had been removed from the boat and completely glassed
>over (closing the pivot pin hole).
>
>Well - today I jacked up the boat, drove out the 1/2"
>ss pin (good condition) from the centerboard trunk and
>proceeded to try to fit the c.b. in the trunk.
>
> Q: When the c.b. is correctly installed - I am
>assuming that it fully retracts inside the cb trunk so
>that none of the boats weight reasts on the c.b when
>on the trailer. Is this correct?
>
>If so, then I have a problem because when I install
>the c.b so that it is fully in the trunk the pivot pin
>passes just in front of the board. (barely touches the
>board)
>
>I am assuming that when the c.b. was repaired/glassed
>over, a part of the board near the pivot pin hole had
>been damaged/removed and was not replaced!
>
>If all the above assumptions are correct - I am going
>to have to add on to the top of the c.b. I am capable
>of doing the glassing but would need a pattern.
>
>Does anybody have their c.b. out of the boat that
>would be willing to send me a tracing ?? In return I
>offer free dockage (transient)on East Bay (part of St.
>Andrews Bay) including water and power! (About 15
>miles east of Panama City, Florida on ICW)
>
> (Actually this offer is good to anyone - just email
>me at schuh8@yahoo.com to arrange.)
>
>Thanks in advance
>
> Bud
>
>__________________________________________________
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>_______________________________________________
>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>

Message 27 of 28

Bud,
I would love to take you up on your bribe. That is
some beautiful cruising area!
The older M15s may have some swelling in the
centerboard trunk due to iron fillings expanding. Mine
#310 was one of them. If you look at some old posting
from Bob Eeg you can make a gauge out of something 1
3/8 inch wide and check the centerboard well width.
When I installed my new centerboard with the pin in
the board got stuck 3/4 of the way up.
I suspect there is more room fore and aft in the well
than is needed. If the swelling is forward of the mid
point you may be able to get the board up but not
forward enough to reach the pin hole. My new board
appeared to be slightly thinner forward.
I had to sand most of the gel coat off of both sides
of my new board to get it to fit.
--- Bud Holzschuh wrote:
> Hi All
>
> For those of you who remember I'm the guy trying to
> install a Montgomery 15 centerboard (hull #256) that
> had been removed from the boat and completely
> glassed
> over (closing the pivot pin hole).
>
> Well - today I jacked up the boat, drove out the
> 1/2"
> ss pin (good condition) from the centerboard trunk
> and
> proceeded to try to fit the c.b. in the trunk.
>
> Q: When the c.b. is correctly installed - I am
> assuming that it fully retracts inside the cb trunk
> so
> that none of the boats weight reasts on the c.b when
> on the trailer. Is this correct?
>
> If so, then I have a problem because when I install
> the c.b so that it is fully in the trunk the pivot
> pin
> passes just in front of the board. (barely touches
> the
> board)
>
> I am assuming that when the c.b. was
> repaired/glassed
> over, a part of the board near the pivot pin hole
> had
> been damaged/removed and was not replaced!
>
> If all the above assumptions are correct - I am
> going
> to have to add on to the top of the c.b. I am
> capable
> of doing the glassing but would need a pattern.
>
> Does anybody have their c.b. out of the boat that
> would be willing to send me a tracing ?? In return I
> offer free dockage (transient)on East Bay (part of
> St.
> Andrews Bay) including water and power! (About 15
> miles east of Panama City, Florida on ICW)
>
> (Actually this offer is good to anyone - just email
> me at schuh8@yahoo.com to arrange.)
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Bud
>
> __________________________________________________
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Message 28 of 28

Bud,
I also forgot to mention that my CB does protrude
below the keel by about 1/4 inch when retracted.
Thanks
Doug
--- Doug Kelch wrote:
> Bud,
>
> I would love to take you up on your bribe. That is
> some beautiful cruising area!
>
> The older M15s may have some swelling in the
> centerboard trunk due to iron fillings expanding.
> Mine
> #310 was one of them. If you look at some old
> posting
> from Bob Eeg you can make a gauge out of something 1
> 3/8 inch wide and check the centerboard well width.
> When I installed my new centerboard with the pin in
> the board got stuck 3/4 of the way up.
>
> I suspect there is more room fore and aft in the
> well
> than is needed. If the swelling is forward of the
> mid
> point you may be able to get the board up but not
> forward enough to reach the pin hole. My new board
> appeared to be slightly thinner forward.
>
> I had to sand most of the gel coat off of both sides
> of my new board to get it to fit.
> --- Bud Holzschuh wrote:
> > Hi All
> >
> > For those of you who remember I'm the guy trying
> to
> > install a Montgomery 15 centerboard (hull #256)
> that
> > had been removed from the boat and completely
> > glassed
> > over (closing the pivot pin hole).
> >
> > Well - today I jacked up the boat, drove out the
> > 1/2"
> > ss pin (good condition) from the centerboard trunk
> > and
> > proceeded to try to fit the c.b. in the trunk.
> >
> > Q: When the c.b. is correctly installed - I am
> > assuming that it fully retracts inside the cb
> trunk
> > so
> > that none of the boats weight reasts on the c.b
> when
> > on the trailer. Is this correct?
> >
> > If so, then I have a problem because when I
> install
> > the c.b so that it is fully in the trunk the pivot
> > pin
> > passes just in front of the board. (barely touches
> > the
> > board)
> >
> > I am assuming that when the c.b. was
> > repaired/glassed
> > over, a part of the board near the pivot pin hole
> > had
> > been damaged/removed and was not replaced!
> >
> > If all the above assumptions are correct - I am
> > going
> > to have to add on to the top of the c.b. I am
> > capable
> > of doing the glassing but would need a pattern.
> >
> > Does anybody have their c.b. out of the boat that
> > would be willing to send me a tracing ?? In return
> I
> > offer free dockage (transient)on East Bay (part of
> > St.
> > Andrews Bay) including water and power! (About 15
> > miles east of Panama City, Florida on ICW)
> >
> > (Actually this offer is good to anyone - just
> email
> > me at schuh8@yahoo.com to arrange.)
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Bud
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up
> > now.
> > http://mailplus.yahoo.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
>
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>
>
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