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Montgomery Sailboats List Archives Search Results

Montgomery Sailboats List Archives Search Results

24 messages found for  "centerboard" in the body,  "repair" in body,  "2001" in date,  follow:

Click on a link to jump to the corresponding message
Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 or 17
Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 or 17
M_Boats: What I learned about M17 bottom/centerboar/keel stop repair
M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
Re: M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
Re: M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
(Continued next column)		 M_Boats: M23 First Sail
M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Re: M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Re: M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Re: M_Boats: Noisy CB, +
RE: M_Boats: Noisy CB
Re: M_Boats: Replacement for steel centerboard line
Re: M_Boats: Rough water stories
M_Boats: New MSOG member
Re: M_Boats: New MSOG member (AUTO FWD)
M_Boats: OK, a couple more questions...
M_Boats: Suspension

Message 1 of 24

From: Conbert H Benneck
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 or 17
Date: 29 Jan 2001 20:36:26 -0500
-----------------------------------

Dear Jane and Tom,
M15 advantages elegantly expressed.
The M15 has oodles of useable storage space - sail lockers in the
cockpit, plus the storage space in the cabin.
I cut out the bin in the starboard sail locker, and made it removable.
Now I have a spot for small stuff in the bin; and can lift out the bin
and access the space under the bin where I keep my paddle/boat-hook; the
swim ladder; and the Bimini top, and other more seldom used odds and
ends. It adds a lot of useful storage space, but is also a major
project: not something for people without fiberglass repair experience,
and who know how to use tools. But the end result, and additional usable
storage space gained, is well worth the effort.
The 19 inch plastic tool box galley, that was described in MESSING ABOUT
IN BOATS, is a great design. Totally self contained: lives alongside the
centerboard trunk; and provides everything you need for cooking, and
dining for two people. My sole objection is that I can't find space in
the box for two real wine glasses..... But such is life when living on
an M15!
Connie
M15 #400 LEPPO
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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Message 2 of 24

From: "Gary M. Hyde"
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 or 17
Date: 01 Feb 2001 16:07:54 -0800
-----------------------------------

Connie:
How do I access that description of the 19 inch plastic tool box galley in
Messing About in Boats? Sounds like just the thing.
Thanks.
--Gary
M15 #235 "Vanilla"
N24 #133 "Sailebration"
Pullman, WA
gmhyde@wsu.edu
> From: Conbert H Benneck
> Reply-To: montgomery_boats@lists.xmission.com
> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 20:36:26 -0500
> To: montgomery_boats@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 or 17
>
> Dear Jane and Tom,
>
> M15 advantages elegantly expressed.
>
> The M15 has oodles of useable storage space - sail lockers in the
> cockpit, plus the storage space in the cabin.
>
> I cut out the bin in the starboard sail locker, and made it removable.
> Now I have a spot for small stuff in the bin; and can lift out the bin
> and access the space under the bin where I keep my paddle/boat-hook; the
> swim ladder; and the Bimini top, and other more seldom used odds and
> ends. It adds a lot of useful storage space, but is also a major
> project: not something for people without fiberglass repair experience,
> and who know how to use tools. But the end result, and additional usable
> storage space gained, is well worth the effort.
>
> The 19 inch plastic tool box galley, that was described in MESSING ABOUT
> IN BOATS, is a great design. Totally self contained: lives alongside the
> centerboard trunk; and provides everything you need for cooking, and
> dining for two people. My sole objection is that I can't find space in
> the box for two real wine glasses..... But such is life when living on
> an M15!
>
> Connie
> M15 #400 LEPPO
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message 3 of 24

From: Loyd Myers
Subject: M_Boats: What I learned about M17 bottom/centerboar/keel stop repair
Date: 02 Apr 2001 17:53:45 -0700
-----------------------------------

Well, my M17 is back in the driveway with a nice smooth epoxy barrier
coat bottom and a fully functional clean centerboard. It occured to me
that some of my experiences might be of interest to any of you
contemplating such a venture (which I must say, is not for the faint of
heart ;). I had the opportunity to work indoors in a fully equiped body
shop with an experienced painter which turned an undoable job into a
merely miserable one.
I used the interprotect system from interlux (1000 epoxy, watertight
filler, 2000e barrier coat). My bottom had been sandblasted, and had
multiple areas with exposed laminate of maybe 2 inch lengths (usu. along
the laps) and multiple pox marks, some as big a 1/2"
Here's what I did:
Bottom:
1.) finished sanding prep with 80 grit on bottom
2.) brushed on thick coat of interlux 1000 epoxy , being careful to use
brush to work the stuff into each little pox mark
3.) sanded until i was blue in the face with every pneumatic tool known
to man and by hand
4.) rolled *alot* of coats of 2000e -- 2 gallons worth -- onto the
bottom in probably 4-5 coats -- used 3/8" nap roller per interlux specs.
5.) sanded after final 2000e coat
6.) sprayed 3 coats of CSCextra anti-fouling paint onto the bottom (boat
goes into semi-perm mooring on Puget Sound)
Centerboard:
1.) sandblasted
2.) primed with 360R underwater primer within 1 hour
3.) filled with interlux VCwatertight epoxy filler
4.) repaired the keel stop for the centerboard (twice -- more on that
later)
Here's what I learned:
1.) interlux techinical bulletin #900, and their hotline number were
both very useful although they didn't always agree on procedures. In
particular, the specs for overcoating underwater cast iron called for
sandblasting, followed directly by 2000e within 1 hour, or vinlywash
primer (as previously disussed by howard and other on the board), then
2000e. However, when I called interlux they were quite emphatic that
regardless of time post-sandblasting, you should prime with 360R
underwater metal primer, not the vinylwash.
2.) Interlux specs conflict about what epoxy undercoat product to use --
1000 vs. epiglass. Apparently epiglass is now preferred although the
literature is not up-to-date yet. West Marine has both, but we used
1000
3.) Interlux says brush the first coat. We did that, and created a
pretty big problem. the 1000 product is essentially an Epoxy, and it is
really tough to sand. It also spreads poorly with a brush and bunches
up, especially on the lap edges, which leaves you with a long arduous
sanding task. I suspect rolling might have been better.
4.) The centerboard is a tight fit in the housing -- in particular, we
put a little too much VCwatertight on it when repairing the corroded
areas and between that and the thickness of the bottom paint, it
wouldn't go up the hole. (it was really discouraging to see that in the
process of trying to install the board, the keel had peeled all the
protective bottom paint off the board, and it had to be completely
redone).
5.) In redoing the centerboard, we discovered one big thing: the 2000e
barrier coat goes on *much* smoother and more evenly if you spray it,
although interlux does not recommend that (they have a seperate product,
3000e, for spraying). It also dried much quicker which is important
because you must put on multiple coats to get the thickness necessary
for protection
6.) we also repaired the keel stop for the centerboard *twice* -- the
first repair was with two stainles schaffer tangs (1" x 6") on either
side of the keel, holding a 3/8' pin, all of which was epoxied into
recesses in the side of the keel. Well, when we went to install the
board we found that there was one point in the arc past which the board
would not descend. We had the (it turned out, relatively bad) idea to
drop the board from some height. This, of course, grenaded the repair,
but in an interesting way: the plates flexed laterally away from the
keel, and the pin popped out.
So on the second repair, I used larger stainless plates 2" x 6" x
3/16" thick, and put a 7/16" bolt and nut between the two for the
stops. The heads of the nut and bolt were ground down some, to reduce
there underwater profile, the plates were screwed to the side of the
keel, countersunk to be flush, and a type of epoxy with fibers was used
to glass in the plates. The 2" or so around the nuts was then covered
with the VCwatertight and made as fair as possible. I think you could
probably hang the boat from that stop, now
7.) finally, no matter what you do to the bottom of an M-boat, remember
that the wrinkles will make everything harder and take longer.
It was a fun project, and hopefully will secure the bottom for years to
come.
Loyd
M17 #334 (name to-be-determined -- i'm thinking of Elbow Grease ;)
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Message 4 of 24

From: Doug King
Subject: M_Boats: CB for M15
Date: 04 Apr 2001 23:28:56 -0400
-----------------------------------

--Boundary_(ID_3F4/ORi1P24SmtX2qsXwBQ)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard. He checked
with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the molds were
destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control (as were the
forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but some of you guys know
more about that than I do.
So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another CB for an
older M15?
I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I proposed
another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats, too. The idea
would be to see if we could come up with the specs and dimensions for the
boards and a fabricator who could make them based on those drawings. I know
some of you have tried fabrication before and the costs were prohibitive, but I
wonder if we had a set of design drawings that folks like me, who don't have
much experience with this, could take around and get estimates by cast a wider
net, we might find a workable solution.
Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably come down if
several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do, unless enough
people are looking now or will need one soon.
I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to help, but
it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as the boats get
older. I know we have some good smart people in the group: engineers,
designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two. I know it probably isn't easy,
and I know there are variations caused by iron CBs' and iron keels' corrosive
swelling and such, but you got to start somewhere; I would think the best
place would be with the original design and modify from there. I also think
that once it's done, it may be something none of us has to worry about again.
I'd certainly take plans around here for estimates, prices tend to be cheaper
for this sort of thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major
maintenance/repair hub for Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal
fabricators there.
Any comments or corrections?
Doug
Doug King
dking@vt.edu
M-17 #404 "Vixen"
--Boundary_(ID_3F4/ORi1P24SmtX2qsXwBQ)
Content-type: text/html; charset=us-ascii


I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard.
He checked with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the
molds were destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control
(as were the forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but
some of you guys know more about that than I do.



So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another
CB for an older M15?



I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I
proposed another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats,
too.  The idea would be to see if we could come up with the specs
and dimensions for the boards and a fabricator who could make them based
on those drawings. I know some of you have tried fabrication before and
the costs were prohibitive, but I wonder if we had a set of design
drawings that folks like me, who don't have much experience with this,
could take around and get estimates by cast a wider net, we might find a
workable solution.



Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably
come down if several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do,
unless enough people are looking now or will need one soon.



I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to
help, but it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as
the boats get older. I know we have some good smart people in the group:
engineers, designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two.  I know
it probably isn't easy, and I know there are variations caused by iron
CBs' and iron keels' corrosive swelling and such, but you got to start
somewhere;  I would think the best place would be with the original
design and modify from there. I also think that once it's done, it may be
something none of us has to worry about again. I'd certainly take plans
around here for estimates, prices tend to be cheaper for this sort of
thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major maintenance/repair hub for
Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal fabricators there.



Any comments or corrections?



Doug



Doug King

dking@vt.edu

M-17 #404 "Vixen"
--Boundary_(ID_3F4/ORi1P24SmtX2qsXwBQ)--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message 5 of 24

From: "Randy Watkins"
Subject: Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Date: 05 Apr 2001 08:22:23 -0500
-----------------------------------

Doug, do you know what year the boat is ( M15 ) in question?
Randy W.=20
>>> dking@vt.edu 04/04/01 10:28PM >>>
I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard. He =
checked
with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the molds were
destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control (as were the
forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but some of you guys =
know
more about that than I do.
So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another CB =
for an
older M15?
I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I =
proposed
another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats, too. The =
idea
would be to see if we could come up with the specs and dimensions for the
boards and a fabricator who could make them based on those drawings. I =
know
some of you have tried fabrication before and the costs were prohibitive, =
but I
wonder if we had a set of design drawings that folks like me, who don't =
have
much experience with this, could take around and get estimates by cast a =
wider
net, we might find a workable solution.
Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably come down =
if
several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do, unless enough
people are looking now or will need one soon.=20
I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to help, =
but
it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as the boats get
older. I know we have some good smart people in the group: engineers,
designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two. I know it probably isn't =
easy,
and I know there are variations caused by iron CBs' and iron keels' =
corrosive
swelling and such, but you got to start somewhere; I would think the best
place would be with the original design and modify from there. I also =
think
that once it's done, it may be something none of us has to worry about =
again.
I'd certainly take plans around here for estimates, prices tend to be =
cheaper
for this sort of thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major
maintenance/repair hub for Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal
fabricators there.=20
Any comments or corrections?
Doug
Doug King
dking@vt.edu=20
M-17 #404 "Vixen"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message 6 of 24

From: Bob
Subject: Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Date: 05 Apr 2001 08:21:01 -0700
-----------------------------------

--------------030802010704090808020302
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
We can build the 15 board as long as the centerboard trunk isn't
swelled up less than the 1.25 inches we need for the new fiberglass,
lead filled board.
The older 15 boards had steel shot for ballast.
The older 17s have the boards that we cannot do.
I called Larry with the 15 (thought he had a 17?) and he will
measure his centerboard trunk gap and if its 1.25 inches we can
supply him a board.
Your right about shipping costs for the boards. It is expensive to
ship a 50 pound lead filled board in a padded box.
UPS drivers have a habit of dropping the box and we have had
boards packed by Mail Boxes Etc. that arrived damaged and in
need of repair. (the edge airfoil shape is fragile on the fiberglass
board).
For the older 17s with the cast iron boards I think a plate-steel
laser cut board would fit. It wouldn't have to be as thick as the older
boards.
Bob
Randy Watkins wrote:
> Doug, do you know what year the boat is ( M15 ) in question?
>
> Randy W.
>
>>>> dking@vt.edu 04/04/01 10:28PM >>>
>>>
>
> I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard. He checked
> with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the molds were
> destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control (as were the
> forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but some of you guys know
> more about that than I do.
>
> So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another CB for an
> older M15?
>
> I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I proposed
> another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats, too. The idea
> would be to see if we could come up with the specs and dimensions for the
> boards and a fabricator who could make them based on those drawings. I know
> some of you have tried fabrication before and the costs were prohibitive, but I
> wonder if we had a set of design drawings that folks like me, who don't have
> much experience with this, could take around and get estimates by cast a wider
> net, we might find a workable solution.
>
> Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably come down if
> several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do, unless enough
> people are looking now or will need one soon.
>
> I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to help, but
> it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as the boats get
> older. I know we have some good smart people in the group: engineers,
> designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two. I know it probably isn't easy,
> and I know there are variations caused by iron CBs' and iron keels' corrosive
> swelling and such, but you got to start somewhere; I would think the best
> place would be with the original design and modify from there. I also think
> that once it's done, it may be something none of us has to worry about again.
> I'd certainly take plans around here for estimates, prices tend to be cheaper
> for this sort of thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major
> maintenance/repair hub for Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal
> fabricators there.
>
> Any comments or corrections?
>
> Doug
>
> Doug King
> dking@vt.edu
> M-17 #404 "Vixen"
>
>
>
>
--------------030802010704090808020302
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
We can build the 15 board as long as the centerboard trunk isn't

swelled up less than the 1.25 inches we need for the new fiberglass,

lead filled board.

The older 15 boards had steel shot for ballast.

The older 17s have the boards that we cannot do.

I called Larry with the 15  (thought he had a 17?) and he will

measure his centerboard trunk gap and if its 1.25 inches we can

supply him a board.



Your right about shipping costs for the boards. It is expensive to

ship a 50 pound lead filled board in a padded box.

UPS drivers have a habit of dropping the box and we have had

boards packed by Mail Boxes Etc. that arrived damaged and in

need of repair. (the edge airfoil shape is fragile on the fiberglass

board).



For the older 17s with the cast iron boards I think a plate-steel

laser cut board would fit. It wouldn't have to be as thick as the older

boards.



Bob



Randy Watkins wrote:

Doug, do you know what year the boat is ( M15 ) in question?

Randy W. 


dking@vt.edu 04/04/01 10:28PM >>>


I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard. He checked
with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the molds were
destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control (as were the
forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but some of you guys know
more about that than I do.

So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another CB for an
older M15?

I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I proposed
another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats, too.  The idea
would be to see if we could come up with the specs and dimensions for the
boards and a fabricator who could make them based on those drawings. I know
some of you have tried fabrication before and the costs were prohibitive, but I
wonder if we had a set of design drawings that folks like me, who don't have
much experience with this, coul!
d take around and get estimates by cast a wider
net, we might find a workable solution.

Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably come down if
several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do, unless enough
people are looking now or will need one soon. 

I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to help, but
it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as the boats get
older. I know we have some good smart people in the group: engineers,
designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two.  I know it probably isn't easy,
and I know there are variations caused by iron CBs' and iron keels' corrosive
swelling and such, but you got to start somewhere;  I would think the best
place would be with the original design and modify from there. I also think
that once it's done, it may be something none of us has to worry about again.
I'd certainly take plans around here for estim!
ates, prices tend to be cheaper
for this sort of thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major
maintenance/repair hub for Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal
fabricators there. 

Any comments or corrections?

Doug

Doug King
dking@vt.edu 
M-17 #404 "Vixen"









--------------030802010704090808020302--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Go TopGo Bottom

Message 7 of 24

From: Doug King
Subject: Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Date: 05 Apr 2001 11:21:48 -0400
-----------------------------------

No, and I knew I should ask, and just didn't. Perhaps if the owner is out
there, he can write in and give us paarticulars. Otherwise, I'll write him
tonight when I get home and find out.
Doug
At 08:22 AM 4/5/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>Doug, do you know what year the boat is ( M15 ) in question?
>
>Randy W.
>
>>>> dking@vt.edu 04/04/01 10:28PM >>>
>
>I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard. He
checked
>with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the molds were
>destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control (as were the
>forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but some of you guys
know
>more about that than I do.
>
>So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another CB for an
>older M15?
>
>I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I proposed
>another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats, too. The idea
>would be to see if we could come up with the specs and dimensions for the
>boards and a fabricator who could make them based on those drawings. I know
>some of you have tried fabrication before and the costs were prohibitive,
but I
>wonder if we had a set of design drawings that folks like me, who don't have
>much experience with this, could take around and get estimates by cast a wider
>net, we might find a workable solution.
>
>Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably come down if
>several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do, unless enough
>people are looking now or will need one soon.
>
>I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to help, but
>it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as the boats get
>older. I know we have some good smart people in the group: engineers,
>designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two. I know it probably isn't
easy,
>and I know there are variations caused by iron CBs' and iron keels' corrosive
>swelling and such, but you got to start somewhere; I would think the best
>place would be with the original design and modify from there. I also think
>that once it's done, it may be something none of us has to worry about again.
>I'd certainly take plans around here for estimates, prices tend to be cheaper
>for this sort of thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major
>maintenance/repair hub for Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal
>fabricators there.
>
>Any comments or corrections?
>
>Doug
>
>Doug King
>dking@vt.edu
>M-17 #404 "Vixen"
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Go TopGo Bottom

Message 8 of 24

From: "Randy Watkins"
Subject: Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Date: 05 Apr 2001 10:23:39 -0500
-----------------------------------

Bob, thanks for the info,
no centerboard problems at this time.
Randy W.=20
M15 #194
>>> Bobeeg@earthlink.net 04/05/01 10:21AM >>>
We can build the 15 board as long as the centerboard trunk isn't
swelled up less than the 1.25 inches we need for the new fiberglass,
lead filled board.
The older 15 boards had steel shot for ballast.
The older 17s have the boards that we cannot do.
I called Larry with the 15 (thought he had a 17?) and he will
measure his centerboard trunk gap and if its 1.25 inches we can
supply him a board.
Your right about shipping costs for the boards. It is expensive to
ship a 50 pound lead filled board in a padded box.
UPS drivers have a habit of dropping the box and we have had
boards packed by Mail Boxes Etc. that arrived damaged and in
need of repair. (the edge airfoil shape is fragile on the fiberglass
board).
For the older 17s with the cast iron boards I think a plate-steel
laser cut board would fit. It wouldn't have to be as thick as the older
boards.
Bob
Randy Watkins wrote:
> Doug, do you know what year the boat is ( M15 ) in question?
>=20
> Randy W.=20
>=20
>>>> dking@vt.edu 04/04/01 10:28PM >>>
>>>=20
>=20
> I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard. He =
checked
> with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the molds were
> destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control (as were the
> forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but some of you =
guys know
> more about that than I do.
>=20
> So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another CB =
for an
> older M15?
>=20
> I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I =
proposed
> another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats, too. The =
idea
> would be to see if we could come up with the specs and dimensions for =
the
> boards and a fabricator who could make them based on those drawings. I =
know
> some of you have tried fabrication before and the costs were prohibitive,=
but I
> wonder if we had a set of design drawings that folks like me, who don't =
have
> much experience with this, could take around and get estimates by cast a =
wider
> net, we might find a workable solution.
>=20
> Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably come =
down if
> several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do, unless =
enough
> people are looking now or will need one soon.=20
>=20
> I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to =
help, but
> it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as the boats =
get
> older. I know we have some good smart people in the group: engineers,
> designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two. I know it probably =
isn't easy,
> and I know there are variations caused by iron CBs' and iron keels' =
corrosive
> swelling and such, but you got to start somewhere; I would think the =
best
> place would be with the original design and modify from there. I also =
think
> that once it's done, it may be something none of us has to worry about =
again.
> I'd certainly take plans around here for estimates, prices tend to be =
cheaper
> for this sort of thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major
> maintenance/repair hub for Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal
> fabricators there.=20
>=20
> Any comments or corrections?
>=20
> Doug
>=20
> Doug King
> dking@vt.edu=20
> M-17 #404 "Vixen"
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
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Message 9 of 24

From: Bob
Subject: Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Date: 05 Apr 2001 08:41:05 -0700
-----------------------------------

--------------020603070509040601090205
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Doug
I just talked to Larry and he says its a 1980 boat.
He said the old board broke off at the pivot.
He will measure the gap and if its still 1.25 inches we will supply
a new board for him...
Bob
PS I'll get back to you on the sails we talked about.
I have to update the genoa pricing with Harry Patterson
at Elliot-Patterson sailmakers.
Doug King wrote:
> No, and I knew I should ask, and just didn't. Perhaps if the owner is out
> there, he can write in and give us paarticulars. Otherwise, I'll write him
> tonight when I get home and find out.
>
> Doug
>
> At 08:22 AM 4/5/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> Doug, do you know what year the boat is ( M15 ) in question?
>>
>> Randy W.
>>
>>>>> dking@vt.edu 04/04/01 10:28PM >>>
>>>>
>> I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard. He
>
> checked
>
>> with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the molds were
>> destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control (as were the
>> forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but some of you guys
>
> know
>
>> more about that than I do.
>>
>> So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another CB for an
>> older M15?
>>
>> I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I proposed
>> another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats, too. The idea
>> would be to see if we could come up with the specs and dimensions for the
>> boards and a fabricator who could make them based on those drawings. I know
>> some of you have tried fabrication before and the costs were prohibitive,
>
> but I
>
>> wonder if we had a set of design drawings that folks like me, who don't have
>> much experience with this, could take around and get estimates by cast a wider
>> net, we might find a workable solution.
>>
>> Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably come down if
>> several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do, unless enough
>> people are looking now or will need one soon.
>>
>> I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to help, but
>> it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as the boats get
>> older. I know we have some good smart people in the group: engineers,
>> designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two. I know it probably isn't
>
> easy,
>
>> and I know there are variations caused by iron CBs' and iron keels' corrosive
>> swelling and such, but you got to start somewhere; I would think the best
>> place would be with the original design and modify from there. I also think
>> that once it's done, it may be something none of us has to worry about again.
>> I'd certainly take plans around here for estimates, prices tend to be cheaper
>> for this sort of thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major
>> maintenance/repair hub for Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal
>> fabricators there.
>>
>> Any comments or corrections?
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> Doug King
>> dking@vt.edu
>> M-17 #404 "Vixen"
>>
>>
--------------020603070509040601090205
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Doug

I just talked to Larry and he says its a 1980 boat.



He said the old board broke off at the pivot.



He will measure the gap and if its still 1.25 inches we will supply

a new board for him...



Bob

PS I'll get back to you on the sails we talked about.

I have to update the genoa pricing with Harry Patterson

at Elliot-Patterson sailmakers.



Doug King wrote:

No, and I knew I should ask, and just didn't. Perhaps if the owner is out
there, he can write in and give us paarticulars. Otherwise, I'll write him
tonight when I get home and find out.

Doug

At 08:22 AM 4/5/2001 -0500, you wrote:

Doug, do you know what year the boat is ( M15 ) in question?

Randy W. 

dking@vt.edu 04/04/01 10:28PM >>>
I received an email from a fellow who recently lost his centerboard. He

checked

with Bob Eeg, who can't help on the older boards, since the molds were
destroyed in circumstances beyond his, or Jerry M's control (as were the
forward hatch molds) and the new FG boards don't fit--but some of you guys

know

more about that than I do.

So, does anybody have any ideas on where/how someone can get another CB for an
older M15?

I found out this stuff when I was inquiring whether Bob minded if I proposed
another solution, not just for 15s, but for the other boats, too.  The idea
would be to see if we could come up with the specs and dimensions for the
boards and a fabricator who could make them based on those drawings. I know
some of you have tried fabrication before and the costs were prohibitive,

but I

wonder if we had a set of design drawings that folks like me, who don't have
much experience with this, could take around and get estimates by cast a wider
net, we might find a workable solution.

Bob was for the idea and mentioned that the price would probably come down if
several were ordered at one time--probably difficult to do, unless enough
people are looking now or will need one soon. 

I don't have a good idea what is involved or who would be willing to help, but
it seems to me it's a problem that's not going to go away as the boats get
older. I know we have some good smart people in the group: engineers,
designers, CAD operators, a boatbuilder or two.  I know it probably isn't

easy,

and I know there are variations caused by iron CBs' and iron keels' corrosive
swelling and such, but you got to start somewhere;  I would think the best
place would be with the original design and modify from there. I also think
that once it's done, it may be something none of us has to worry about again.
I'd certainly take plans around here for estimates, prices tend to be cheaper
for this sort of thing and nearby Roanoke, Virginia is a major
maintenance/repair hub for Norfolk Southern, so there are several metal
fabricators there. 

Any comments or corrections?

Doug

Doug King
dking@vt.edu 
M-17 #404 "Vixen"







--------------020603070509040601090205--
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Message 10 of 24

From: Natalie Bohnet
Subject: M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
Date: 15 Apr 2001 17:41:52 -0700
-----------------------------------

This is a general call for help. We sail Junior, M-17 (#365). We have
determined that we are taking water into the boat through a hole (or holes)
located at the top of the forward end of the keel sump inside the boat
(another way to describle location is the bottom of the aft end of the
center board trunk at water level). This would be water coming in from
inside the centerboard slot. The problem involves very rough fiberglass
work (seam?) with several indentations/holes in the area previously noted.
The amount of water entering the boat seems to be increasing - the sump
fills to 3/4s full in the course of a 5 hour sail. Plugging/sealing the
area inside the boat appears to be fairly straight forward, if somewhat
challenging because of the location, but I have a nauseous feeling that
there may be problems with sealing the inside of the centerboard trunk and
perhaps worse yet, water in the steel ballast. We have not experienced any
problems (yet!) with deploying the centerboard. We have noticed some rust
stains in the area of the sump. Spoke briefly to Bob Egg re my concerns and
he allowed that there might be water in the ballast and that repair could
be potentially complicated. Recall that Theo had some kind of problem with
his M-23 that might have been similar. Not sure of the best way to
determine if the ballast has been affected, if so, extent of damage,
possible solutions/repairs. Any thoughts, suggestions, advice would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike and Nat
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Message 11 of 24

From: Natalie Bohnet
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
Date: 17 Apr 2001 17:17:06 -0700
-----------------------------------

Hi Folks,
It is us again. I am not sure if everyone if away on Easter break, but we
would really appreciate some input into our problem . If Theo has a copy
of the newsletter he wrote about his repair job on his M23 would love it
faxed to me.
thanks,
Natalie & Mike
M17 -365 "Junior"
At 05:41 PM 4/15/01 -0700, you wrote:
>This is a general call for help. We sail Junior, M-17 (#365). We have
>determined that we are taking water into the boat through a hole (or
>holes) located at the top of the forward end of the keel sump inside the
>boat (another way to describle location is the bottom of the aft end of
>the center board trunk at water level). This would be water coming in from
>inside the centerboard slot. The problem involves very rough fiberglass
>work (seam?) with several indentations/holes in the area previously noted.
>The amount of water entering the boat seems to be increasing - the sump
>fills to 3/4s full in the course of a 5 hour sail. Plugging/sealing the
>area inside the boat appears to be fairly straight forward, if somewhat
>challenging because of the location, but I have a nauseous feeling that
>there may be problems with sealing the inside of the centerboard trunk and
>perhaps worse yet, water in the steel ballast. We have not experienced any
>problems (yet!) with deploying the centerboard. We have noticed some rust
>stains in the area of the sump. Spoke briefly to Bob Egg re my concerns
>and he allowed that there might be water in the ballast and that repair
>could be potentially complicated. Recall that Theo had some kind of
>problem with his M-23 that might have been similar. Not sure of the best
>way to determine if the ballast has been affected, if so, extent of
>damage, possible solutions/repairs. Any thoughts, suggestions, advice
>would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike and Nat
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message 12 of 24

From: Doug Kelch
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
Date: 18 Apr 2001 10:18:06 -0400
-----------------------------------

Natalie,
Send a fax number and I will send the article altho I don't believe it will
help with your problem. I do believe there was an extensive exhance on this
form on your specific problem about a year ago. If you down load the archives
and use a word processor for a search on leak you might find the exchange.
Does anyone remember the year and month of the exchange to help narrow the
search?
I have repaired similar leaks in the daggerboard well of a sunfish after
hitting a rock dead on at bout 4 kts.
Doug Kelch
M15 "Seas the Day"
Natalie Bohnet wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> It is us again. I am not sure if everyone if away on Easter break, but we
> would really appreciate some input into our problem . If Theo has a copy
> of the newsletter he wrote about his repair job on his M23 would love it
> faxed to me.
> thanks,
> Natalie & Mike
> M17 -365 "Junior"
>
> At 05:41 PM 4/15/01 -0700, you wrote:
> >This is a general call for help. We sail Junior, M-17 (#365). We have
> >determined that we are taking water into the boat through a hole (or
> >holes) located at the top of the forward end of the keel sump inside the
> >boat (another way to describle location is the bottom of the aft end of
> >the center board trunk at water level). This would be water coming in from
> >inside the centerboard slot. The problem involves very rough fiberglass
> >work (seam?) with several indentations/holes in the area previously noted.
> >The amount of water entering the boat seems to be increasing - the sump
> >fills to 3/4s full in the course of a 5 hour sail. Plugging/sealing the
> >area inside the boat appears to be fairly straight forward, if somewhat
> >challenging because of the location, but I have a nauseous feeling that
> >there may be problems with sealing the inside of the centerboard trunk and
> >perhaps worse yet, water in the steel ballast. We have not experienced any
> >problems (yet!) with deploying the centerboard. We have noticed some rust
> >stains in the area of the sump. Spoke briefly to Bob Egg re my concerns
> >and he allowed that there might be water in the ballast and that repair
> >could be potentially complicated. Recall that Theo had some kind of
> >problem with his M-23 that might have been similar. Not sure of the best
> >way to determine if the ballast has been affected, if so, extent of
> >damage, possible solutions/repairs. Any thoughts, suggestions, advice
> >would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike and Nat
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Message 13 of 24

From: Jeff Grudin
Subject: M_Boats: M23 First Sail
Date: 10 Jun 2001 21:48:09 -0700
-----------------------------------

Yesterday I finished up some of the last of the important renovations
and today I took the new boat out for it's first sail in 10 years.
Pretty cool.
The launching was routine. When I released the ratchet for the
centerboard and felt the tension on the winch handle, I was relieved.
The centerboard went up and down easily.
The repair I made on the teak hatch guides worked very well. The teak
had worn down on the part of the guide that the hatch sloides on causing
the hatch to rub on the cabin top runners and make a horrible squeaking
sound. I cut some 3/4 inch teak into 1/8 inch strips and laminated them
into the guides to raise the hatch 1/8 inch above the cabin runners. It
worked like a charm.
With the first look across the lake and I knew we were in for a good
ride, white caps. It was blowing about 18 knots and we had to reef the
main. We used the working jib. The boat seemed pretty well balanced,
although when going upwind I think a smaller jib would have been nice.
During the puffs, the leward rail was buried and I had to keep luffing
to spill some air (I know I am a chicken).
The boat handled very nice and was much faster than I would have
thought. I think it is even faster than my last boat, a Catalina 25.
It also seems more tender than the Catalina. We took my Cattle Dog
Cody, who normally likes to sail, but she kept flying back and forth
across the cockpit and didn't look too happy.
Now I am looking forward to my next sail and learning more about the
intricacies of the boat.
--
73 de AC6KW
Jeff Grudin, DVM Web Add: http://www.vdbs.com/~grudin
Ocean Animal Clinic / Cat Clinic of Santa Cruz - Santa Cruz, California
Norcal QRP #1292 QRP-L #16 ARS #351 AR Qrp #131
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message 14 of 24

From: "Lacey Hartje"
Subject: M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Date: 13 Jun 2001 03:47:11
-----------------------------------

I'm getting a gallon or two of water in between the hull and hull liner each
time I sail. I have cut several inspection holes in the hull liner in the
porta potty area to get it out. It actually fills up and runs over into the
bilge. Water only gets in while underway. I suspected the joint of inner
and outer centerboard trunk cases and deck. I cut this area out and sealed
it forever with thickened epoxy and then put the original pieces back
masonry style with epoxy and taped over the repair. But the leak is still
there.
I'm confident that the water is being forced in while underway and while the
centerboard is under presure. I now believe there is a crack in the
hull/inner centerboard trunk that is opened by presure on the centerboard.
No water ever drains out on my driveway or garage floor. I have not flooded
the interior to check for a leak, it has to be inside the centerboard trunk.
I have checked the exterior hull and found nothing. I checked the
archives for info on leaks, but didn't find much help there.
I have a strategy, but wanted to know if anyone else has any ideas. Is this
a common problem?
I plan to get the boat off the trailer, remove the centerboard, and check
for a crack inside the centerboard trunk. Is the inner centerboard truck
case part of the hull or a seperate piece? Is this a common/possible site
for a leak? If I find the crack that I think exists, I plan to epoxy
fill/tape it and possibly flood the space between the hull and hull liner
with reinforced epoxy.
This is hull 105, 21 years old and once again looks new. I took it to a
"mess-about" this weekend in IL and got lots of complements. This is the
second M15 I've restored, the first was hull 201. Thanks.
Lacey Hartje, Jr.
M15 #105 Farfromonday
St. Louis, MO
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message 15 of 24

From: Bob
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Date: 12 Jun 2001 21:05:39 -0700
-----------------------------------

Lacey
Remove everything from the boat, including all the boards over the
seat lockers and V berths. (the foam also).
Fill the interior lockers one at a time with a garden hose.
Eventually filling the entire boat interior with water.
Don't splash any water outside and you will soon find the leak.
Once you find the leak (probably the centerboard trunk which
is a separate piece bonded in before the ballast and liner go in)
you can fix it properly.
No use drilling holes and pouring epoxy without knowing exactly
where the leak really is.
One benefit is you'll have a clean interior and you can share your
experience when you find the leak. :-)
Do it!
Fair winds
Bob
Lacey Hartje wrote:
> I'm getting a gallon or two of water in between the hull and hull
> liner each time I sail. I have cut several inspection holes in the
> hull liner in the porta potty area to get it out. It actually fills
> up and runs over into the bilge. Water only gets in while underway.
> I suspected the joint of inner and outer centerboard trunk cases and
> deck. I cut this area out and sealed it forever with thickened epoxy
> and then put the original pieces back masonry style with epoxy and
> taped over the repair. But the leak is still there.
>
> I'm confident that the water is being forced in while underway and
> while the centerboard is under presure. I now believe there is a
> crack in the hull/inner centerboard trunk that is opened by presure on
> the centerboard. No water ever drains out on my driveway or garage
> floor. I have not flooded the interior to check for a leak, it has to
> be inside the centerboard trunk. I have checked the exterior hull and
> found nothing. I checked the archives for info on leaks, but didn't
> find much help there.
>
> I have a strategy, but wanted to know if anyone else has any ideas.
> Is this a common problem?
>
> I plan to get the boat off the trailer, remove the centerboard, and
> check for a crack inside the centerboard trunk. Is the inner
> centerboard truck case part of the hull or a seperate piece? Is this
> a common/possible site for a leak? If I find the crack that I think
> exists, I plan to epoxy fill/tape it and possibly flood the space
> between the hull and hull liner with reinforced epoxy.
>
> This is hull 105, 21 years old and once again looks new. I took it to
> a "mess-about" this weekend in IL and got lots of complements. This
> is the second M15 I've restored, the first was hull 201. Thanks.
>
> Lacey Hartje, Jr.
> M15 #105 Farfromonday
> St. Louis, MO
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
>
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Message 16 of 24

From: sparsons@canby.com (Steve Parsons)
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Date: 16 Jun 2001 14:36:10 -0700
-----------------------------------

Lacey,
Bob forgot to mention the part about getting some beer, laying in the shade
under the boat, and watching diligently for the leak to appear.
Steve
>Lacey
>
>Remove everything from the boat, including all the boards over the
>seat lockers and V berths. (the foam also).
>
>Fill the interior lockers one at a time with a garden hose.
>
>Eventually filling the entire boat interior with water.
>
>Don't splash any water outside and you will soon find the leak.
>
>Once you find the leak (probably the centerboard trunk which
>is a separate piece bonded in before the ballast and liner go in)
>you can fix it properly.
>
>No use drilling holes and pouring epoxy without knowing exactly
>where the leak really is.
>
>One benefit is you'll have a clean interior and you can share your
>experience when you find the leak. :-)
>
>Do it!
>
>Fair winds
>Bob
>
>Lacey Hartje wrote:
>
>> I'm getting a gallon or two of water in between the hull and hull
>> liner each time I sail. I have cut several inspection holes in the
>> hull liner in the porta potty area to get it out. It actually fills
>> up and runs over into the bilge. Water only gets in while underway.
>> I suspected the joint of inner and outer centerboard trunk cases and
>> deck. I cut this area out and sealed it forever with thickened epoxy
>> and then put the original pieces back masonry style with epoxy and
>> taped over the repair. But the leak is still there.
>>
>> I'm confident that the water is being forced in while underway and
>> while the centerboard is under presure. I now believe there is a
>> crack in the hull/inner centerboard trunk that is opened by presure on
>> the centerboard. No water ever drains out on my driveway or garage
>> floor. I have not flooded the interior to check for a leak, it has to
>> be inside the centerboard trunk. I have checked the exterior hull and
>> found nothing. I checked the archives for info on leaks, but didn't
>> find much help there.
>>
>> I have a strategy, but wanted to know if anyone else has any ideas.
>> Is this a common problem?
>>
>> I plan to get the boat off the trailer, remove the centerboard, and
>> check for a crack inside the centerboard trunk. Is the inner
>> centerboard truck case part of the hull or a seperate piece? Is this
>> a common/possible site for a leak? If I find the crack that I think
>> exists, I plan to epoxy fill/tape it and possibly flood the space
>> between the hull and hull liner with reinforced epoxy.
>>
>> This is hull 105, 21 years old and once again looks new. I took it to
>> a "mess-about" this weekend in IL and got lots of complements. This
>> is the second M15 I've restored, the first was hull 201. Thanks.
>>
>> Lacey Hartje, Jr.
>> M15 #105 Farfromonday
>> St. Louis, MO
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message 17 of 24

From: Loyd Myers
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Noisy CB, +
Date: 27 Jun 2001 17:58:30 -0700
-----------------------------------

Tod,
I'd think twice about shims. As has been noted, there may be intermittent swelling of the
CB trunk as a function of several factors (i don't know what they all are -- probably moisture
and temp). The problem of having the trunk too narrow and the CB sticking will make your
occasional clunking at anchor seem like a mid summer night's dream by comparison.
I learned this the hard way when I primed, puttied, and barrier coated the CB on
"Whippersnap" and subsequently attempted to install it. All we had to show for our efforts,
after *two* tries, was a Centerboard minus a whole lot of peeled-off barrier coat, still
refusing to go up the hole.
I'll stick with the clunks.
loyd
"htmills@bright.net" wrote:
> I've noticed my 17's centerboard clunks while anchored; I've made it a practice
> to raise it. Haven't noticed it clunking while sailing though.
>
> Is the 17's c/b pennant supposed to have a knot in it too? Mine didn't but I added
> one just in case.
>
> Part of my plans for sprucing up BuscaBrisas include pulling the c/b and repair the dings
> in it. I'm planning on adding shims to reduce the clearance as well.
>
> After seeing the handrails with Cetol light on them, I'm not happy with the appearance,
> so am going to varnish instead. Howard's wood looked SO NICE at the CBR with it's
> fifty-zillion coats gleaming.
>
> Only bad part is when I went to remove the hatch trim-boards they wouldn't come off.
> Not sure what they are bedded with but it's strong enough that I am sure I'd split the wood
> before I'd pry them off. The stuff is reddish. I wonder if there is a solvent I could use?
> Any one have any ideas?
>
> Tod
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Message 18 of 24

From: "Bill Riker"
Subject: RE: M_Boats: Noisy CB
Date: 27 Jun 2001 22:21:07 -0400
-----------------------------------

Tom,
My centerboard clunks some on the trailer and while at rest in the water,
but I haven't noticed it while sailing. If it's bothering me at night,
raising it seems to help.
Bill Riker
M-15 #184
Storm Petrel
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-montgomery_boats@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Tom Smith
Sent: June 27, 2001 2:07 PM
Do any other M15 owners notice a fair amount of cb noise in heavy going?
Mine sounds like it's whopping back and forth in the trunk more than it
should--that there is more lateral play than there ought to be.
My boat has a little history in this regard. The dpo sailed without that
critical knot in the cb lanyard and broke out the pivot pin. It was
repaired before my time (when I bought it it still didn't have the knot) so
I don't know the condition of the cb itself. Any experience or ideas with
this? Thanks. T
Tom Smith and Jane Van Winkle
M15/345 -- Chukar
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Message 19 of 24

From: DDAYSTROM@aol.com
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Replacement for steel centerboard line
Date: 15 Jul 2001 22:14:02 EDT
-----------------------------------

Hello Dennis,
Yes! I would like to use your lift and after repairs are complete, maybe
check out the Potomac!
Thanks for the offer,
al williams
<< Al,
Sorry to hear about the centerboard line. Let me know if you would like to
use my boat lift to install a new one. It may be helpful for getting the knot
in the right place since your centerboard doesn't have the tang to stop it.
Maybe we could plan a weekend of sailing on the Potomac! Any other takers?
Dennis >>
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Message 20 of 24

From: DDAYSTROM@aol.com
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Rough water stories
Date: 15 Jul 2001 23:24:33 EDT
-----------------------------------

Hello Mike,
Yes, I was able to get the boat on the trailer using the trailer winch and
the board did retract as it moved onto the trailer. Again, I had to do some
serious cranking ;) Having a very good ramp also helped. The line broke with
the centerboard in the up position. I believe my stop pin at the end is
broken, so you can imagine how things looked under water.
Now for the rest of the story...
Saturday was a wonderful day to be sailing on Chesapeake Bay. After launching
at Holiday Hill Marina, Mayo, MD I decided to play it safe and sail on the
West River and save Thomas Point light for another day. This was my second
time out on the boat. (It would have been my third, but last time out I broke
a starboard side turnbuckle. I will spare you the details;) Any way it was
late afternoon and I was getting the hang of sailing my M17. All of a sudden
I heard this noise. What was that? I must have run aground. Nope! What's that
banging sound below the hull? Quick, look and to see if any water is coming
through the hull. Nope! Good. Sounds like the c/b is banging around. How
could that be, I never lowered it! So I checked the line and sure enough it
was broken.
At this time a lot of questions entered my mind. Will I loose the c/b? Will I
make it back to the marina or get stuck? After lowering the sails I decided
to go slow and head for the marina. It was a bumpy ride back, since everybody
and there brother was heading in to anchor in their favorite spot.
All in all things worked out OK. After repairs are made I'll be back on the
water.
-al williams
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Message 21 of 24

From: (montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com)
Subject: M_Boats: New MSOG member
Date: Thu Dec 20 01:27:12 2001
-----------------------------------

Welcome Steve!
My Admirable is named Debbie so we have a lot in common!
My M-15 has been repaired at some point in time. Two circular plates have =
been installed on either side of the centerboard trunk, near the top. I wi=
sh they had used a removable plate. These are removable, but I need a phil=
lips screwdriver to remove them. There is also an indication of work done =
on either side of the keel just below where the keel joins the hull. There=
are circles of "new" colored fiberglass about the size of a half dollar. =
I assume the centerboard pin was replaced at some time in the past. A worn=
pin =93bushing=94 seems to be a common problem among older boats and one t=
hat can be repaired in a straightforward manner. This may or may not be yo=
ur situation.
I do not think I get water in through he hull, but the hatch is suspect in =
a downpour.=20
Howard - the Midwest Rendezvous sounds good!
Steve R.
M-15 #119
Lexington, KY
--- Steve_McClellan@hmco.com wrote:
>Hello Montgomery Folks!

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Message 22 of 24

From: (montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com)
Subject: Re: M_Boats: New MSOG member (AUTO FWD)
Date: Wed Dec 26 15:00:48 2001
-----------------------------------

Thanks for the welcome aboard Connie -- yes, located in the Chicago area I
expect to be sailing primarily on the Great Lakes -- which if not as
challenging as the ocean, can be demanding enough, so I really was looking
for a boat in which I can have complete confidence. Montgomery seemed to
be the only such one that I could also fit in my garage -- so there was
really no other choice for me.
Speaking of the Great Lakes, I would love to hear about anyone's favorite
cruising spots on Lake Michigan or Superior. Right now, I really have my
eyes on the Apostle Islands -- never been there yet but they look awfully
inviting on the map.
As for the water I found in my bilge, after considering all the M-boaters'
comments so far, I've decided that, having pumped it dry and not been able
yet to find any obvious problems on the outer hull, I'll just put her in
the water and see what happens -- given the way it was being kept when I
found it, it's very possible it was just rainwater. But yes, I intend to
refer to your postings in the archive if it turns out I need to repair
it--and I won't be reticent if I need your help, don't worry about that.
Believe me, it's much appreciated.
And thanks also to all you who responded with comments about my possible
leak--they were all very helpful. Hope all your holidays are going well.
(It's FINALLY too cold around here to sail.)
Steve & Debra
Chicago Area
M-15 #152
Conbert H Benneck @mailman.xmission.com on 12/24/2001
08:33:22 PM
Please respond to montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Sent by: montgomery_boats-admin@mailman.xmission.com
To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
cc:
Steve,
Welcome aboard!
The M15 is a great little ship, and can undertake considerable voyages,
if you have followed Scott's adventures cruising north towards Alaska.
I found that I had a leak at the aft end of the centerboard trunk in my
M15, which I successfully fixed.
You'll probably find my comments and "how's and why's" in the archives,
but if you can't find them, I'll be glad to give you a detailed
description of what I found and how I fixed it.
Since then the boat is absolutely dry, as it should be!
Again, welcome aboard, and have a Happy Holiday.
Connie Benneck
M15 #400 LEPPO
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Message 23 of 24

From: (Stan Winarski)
Subject: M_Boats: OK, a couple more questions...
Date: Fri Dec 28 18:46:38 2001
-----------------------------------

The Montgomery will hang very nicely suspended by the front and side
chain plates and the stern traveler. I hang mine in my garage (eye hooks
deeply inserted into overhead joists) by raising the front of the
trailer to hook the bow then using come-alongs on the sides tying off a
stern line as the stern rises.
Once raised lash safety timbers (two to a side) and remove the trailer.
I've used this method three times to paint the hull and once to repair
the swing keel. I also position a very substantial block an inch or two
under the keel so that if anything ever did give way, it wouldn't have
more than a few inches to drop.
Be careful lowering and raising the centerboard, it will drop like a
very heavy rock.
Stan
M15, #177 Carol II

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Message 24 of 24

From: (Thomas Howe)
Subject: M_Boats: Suspension
Date: Fri Dec 28 18:59:02 2001
-----------------------------------

Is there any reason why this shouldn't work on a M17? The chainplate are on
the side of the cabintop, but I would assume that the stresses would be
spread out pretty equally. I have always used slings and chainfalls to
hoist my boats, but if the chainplates would hold the load it would make
the job many times simpler. What kind of attachment to the plates do you
use? S hooks? I'm intrigued by the idea of lifting Osprey II more easily
than my current method, which works but causes some gnashing of teeth when
I'm trying to locate the straps.
> [Original Message]
> From: Stan Winarski
> To:
> Date: 12/28/01 12:46:38 PM
> Subject: Re: M_Boats: OK, a couple more questions...
>
> The Montgomery will hang very nicely suspended by the front and side
> chain plates and the stern traveler. I hang mine in my garage (eye hooks
> deeply inserted into overhead joists) by raising the front of the
> trailer to hook the bow then using come-alongs on the sides tying off a
> stern line as the stern rises.
>
> Once raised lash safety timbers (two to a side) and remove the trailer.
> I've used this method three times to paint the hull and once to repair
> the swing keel. I also position a very substantial block an inch or two
> under the keel so that if anything ever did give way, it wouldn't have
> more than a few inches to drop.
>
> Be careful lowering and raising the centerboard, it will drop like a
> very heavy rock.
>
> Stan
> M15, #177 Carol II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
--- Thomas Howe
--- Service Integrity Results
--- J.C.Nichols Residential, ACRES Realtors
--- Your Link to Real Estate in Lawrence, Kansas
--- 785-550-1169
--- TEHowe@JCNichols.com
--- http://www.home.earthlink.net/~thomashowe/

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Click on a link to jump to the corresponding message
Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 or 17
Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 or 17
M_Boats: What I learned about M17 bottom/centerboar/keel stop repair
M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
Re: M_Boats: CB for M15
M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
Re: M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
Re: M_Boats: Centerboard trunk repair
(Continued next column)		 M_Boats: M23 First Sail
M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Re: M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Re: M_Boats: Need advice on M15 hull leak
Re: M_Boats: Noisy CB, +
RE: M_Boats: Noisy CB
Re: M_Boats: Replacement for steel centerboard line
Re: M_Boats: Rough water stories
M_Boats: New MSOG member
Re: M_Boats: New MSOG member (AUTO FWD)
M_Boats: OK, a couple more questions...
M_Boats: Suspension