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Dear M-boaters,
I'm still working at getting my "new" M-17 ready for launching. I was
going to go easy on myself and hire the bottom sanding/barrier
coating/painting done. Well, I made arrangements in early June for the
earliest opening which was July 1. Now it's the 21st, and I'm still
getting the "call me next week" line from the boat shop, so I'm thinking
I may have to do it myself :-(
The boat has just one coat of bottom paint now, which is already coming
off in many places. The hull looks relatively shiny underneath, so I'm
thinking that whoever painted it the first time didn't do a very good
prep job - maybe it'll make it easier for me to remove the paint.
Here are some methods I'm considering - has anyone had any experiences,
either good or bad, with the following methods?
-sanding with orbital sander - (100 grit paper?)
-using some kind of soft-bristled wheel on a drill
-one of the peel strippers advertised in the catalogs
-any type of scraper
I had thought about sandblasting, but was advised that it could
potentially open up voids behind the gel-coat, if there are any.
Also, I'd like to put on several coats of the interlux barrier epoxy.
Judging by the scum lines, it would be wise to go right to the top of
the boot stripe, so here's the second part of my question:
How will I know where to re-paint the boot stripe? It doesn't stick out
beyond the rest of the boat, or have any other texture. Due to the
lapstrakes, the stripe is rather complicated - not really straight at
all, but kind of sawtoothed and wider in some places than others. I
like the way it looks, and would like to paint it back on. Has anyone
come up with some clever method to mark it for future reference?
Thanks in advance, Rachel
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Message 5 of 44

Jerry,
Thanks so much for the reply. I'm still a bit confused though (maybe I
need to be handed one of those beers). On my 17, which definitely has
the wet locker, there are no holes in the transom at all. The two holes
that have hoses leading to them from the bottom of the wet locker exit
through the hull of the boat, about 5"-6" ahead of the transom, if
memory serves. The holes look like the one(s) on the pre-81 17s that I
looked at.
Now all this being said, I haven't actually had my boat in the water
(so why worry about it sinking, right? :-)), but the exit holes are in
the bottom-painted area of the hull - well in from the boot stripe. Do
I have the lower half of a pre-81 that's been sneakily grafted, by a
previous owner, onto the top half of an 81? What people won't do to
increase re-sale value!
Could you possible clarify this a little? Just bear with me if I'm
easily confused...
Also, the hoses are black and have those little accordion folds in them
- I haven't gotten close enough to them to see if there are any type of
valves, but it doesn't look like it - unless they're built right into
the hoses.
Jerry - thanks again for responding. There's nothing like a reply from
the actual builder. I can't wait to get my boat out onto Lake Superior
- hope I don't have to ask you how to install runners (for ice boating)
on the hull :-) ---- Rachel
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Message 6 of 44

Hi Rachel and listers,
Well, it distresses me that you're thinking of moving your M17 before you
have sailed her. I thought the excitement I saw in your eyes while you
were at the helm of my M17 would hook you permanently.
I probably mentioned that I had to do the bottom of my M17 after I bought
her three years ago. The blisters appeared as small pock marks, just
below the boot stripe. None were deep or contained any moisture.
The worst part is sanding the fiberglass. I used an orbital sander and
sanding block to get inside the lapstrake ridges. Of course, lying on a
creeper under the jacked up boat provided some of the challenge as well.
Bottom painting is easy once the prep work was done. I used a roller
modified to half of its length to roll along the strakes. Paint timing is
critical as well as the hull temperature. I used 8 coats of Interprotect
2000 followed by two coats of Micron CSC. The bottom looks great and I
feel the light blistering is sealed forever.
You didn't describe how blistered your hull is, I'm curious. Your boat is
newer than mine.
If you're going to have a beer sanding party with Montgomery people,
count me in. Don't forget the brats!
Keep us posted.
Michael "Bones" Bowden
M17 #92
PS , I recieved the complete Pintle-Gudgeon-Pivot rod set from Bob for my
kick-up rudder project. More to be posted later.
___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
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Dear M-ers,
Sorry for the repeat question, but I didn't get any responses the
last time, and an inquiring boatworker (me) needs to know :-)
My M-17 has a molded in blue boot stripe. I'm about to Interprotect
and bottom paint it, so now's my chance to raise the waterline if
necessary (I know, I know, I said I was just about to do this a month
ago, but I got "sidetracked" by removing all the deck fittings and
getting into another whole project - which is basically done now).
Judging by the (faint, wavering) scum line, the actual waterline of
the boat is about halfway up the boot-stripe. But since I haven't had
the boat in the water, I'm not sure if this is accurate. I will
probably keep a reasonable amount of gear aboard, since I'll be
slipping, and I'd like to be sure the Interprotect/bottome paint
actually extends above the waterline by a couple of inches.
Judging by what I'm seeing now, I could probably extend the whole
works to the top of the boot-stripe and then add a new stripe above
that. How does this compare to what anyone else has experienced? Did
the previous owner of my boat just keep everything but the kitchen sink
aboard? Or are other people's waterlines also up into the boot-stripe?
Thanks --- Rachel
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Message 13 of 44

To: m17list=20
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 10:37 AM
Peter,
I was looking at Enfin on the website (such a pretty boat ;), and
noticed in your stern shot of the keel guides, that you have
two holes at about the level of the top of the boot stripe which i =
take
to be cockpit drain holes. Well, my M17 (10/1981) has two drain =
holes,
but they appear to be lower, on the underside of the hull, quite
certainly below the waterline, and connected to the cockpit locker =
with
hoses. If a hose broke, she'd take water and even if there was a
seacock (which there's not), you'd be hard pressed to crawl back there
and close it.
Is my configuration somehow not stock? I'm not that excited about
having my drains below the waterline -- I like the peace of mind that
comes from having no thru-hulls.
Loyd
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Message 14 of 44

In-Reply-To: <3C8E4B83.8548F2AF@postoffice.pacbell.net>
Message-ID: <20020313030236.53032.qmail@web13505.mail.yahoo.com>
Chuck McCoy did finish at least 1 M15. I saw a
mastless M15 at a dock off of the Patuxant river, MD
last year. This M15 looked bran new and had an
oversized green boot stripe and an oversized ( 2
strake) green water line.
I understand that this color pattern is unique to
Chuck.
I wonder what color Cherri's new pretty boat boat from
MD is?
Doug
^Seas The Day^
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
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From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Wed Mar 13 03:28:56 2002

Message 15 of 44

Message-ID: <3CBDDE3A.B6A525EA@worldnet.att.net>
Yesterday my friend and I took Cherri's Jubilee out for the first
time. We had trailered it to a marina to do bottom paint, change the
pennant, and put in the pivot pin. I also added a red boot stripe, so
now she looks really flashy. We motored out of the marina, turned into
the wind, tried to raise the main, and all hell broke loose, so to
speak. The main sail slides kept slipping out of the mast, which also
caused the boom to come out of the mast, plus we had mistakenly released
the topping lift. I'm sure you all can imagine what those few minutes
were like, until we decided to start over again. My point is how do you
raise the sail without the slides falling out? My other boat had some
sort of ^clasp^ type thing that held them in unless released, but this
has nothing. I couldn't even raise the sail all the way up because the
bottom one would slip out. With all that, she sailed beautifully, even
with just the main up (I didn't want any more surprises by that time and
decided to wait till next time for the jib). I also am missing a genoa
block and don't know how and where to replace that - West Marine?
While in the marina, the boat got alot of attention and questions,
even from some of the 30 - 40 ' sailboat owners. Some were interested in
getting one for sailing in the bay.
Cherri Pavuk
Cherri's Jubilee, M-15 #322
Toms River, NJ
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Wed Apr 17 21:52:30 2002

Message 16 of 44

Message 17 of 44

Message-ID:
thought I'd pass this along in case anyone is trip planning...
I started the rendezvous with 28 gallons of water stowed under the v-bert=
h. You can
just imagine where that put my boot stripe. (boot stripe? what boot stri=
pe? I didn't
see any boot stripe. Did you see any boot stripe?). Add to that a coupl=
e of gallons
in the solar shower starting out makes about 30 gallons. Figure 14 days =
on the water
minus two days with access to shore showers leaves 12 days of usage. I =
returned
with a whopping 13 gallons (I didn't think I had that much left) which =
means I used
17 gallons in 12 days, or less than 1 1/2 gallons/day. I didn't drink =
much of it and we
ate out a fair amount, but I did use some to boil spaghetti noodles for =
a couple meals
and other, lighter cooking. The big use was showering. Question is, whe=
ther that was big
enough is something that can only be properly answered by those who may =
have been
downwind :-) Had I done more cooking and drank more of it then probabl=
y the result
would have been closer to 2 gallons/day consumption.
I didn't keep a tally of my usage so I was a bit surprised at how much =
I brought back.
gasoline used in that time period was 3 quarts per week with motoring mos=
tly in calms.
Tod
From montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Tue Jul 9 05:28:14 2002

Message 18 of 44

Message 19 of 44

Well, "hula pie" is hanging from the rafters in my shop [with extra
supports under the keel] and she ain't going back in the water until
that new bottom is on, so I'm glad to hear the various ideas on marking
the waterline. The supports under the keel are exactly level and yet
the old waterline was about one inch higher on the bow- should it be
exactly level all the way around? Something I never noticed until
stripping the old bottom-what a horrible job that is! -that the
waterline port and starboard are about 2 inches different and not even
on the same strake! I am thinking of adding a boot stripe- do they look
good on a lapstrake boat? What type of paint should I use for the
stripe?
While she's up I will be removing the iron board for sandblasting, etc
and repairing the area around the stop pin where a previous repair needs
some more work. How heavy are the old iron c-boards and how many people
are needed to safely remove it without getting crushed toes? Any clever
ideas on how to paint up inside the trunk?
Thanks for the great ideas and info,
Ron Goodspeed M17 "hula pie" #025

Message 20 of 44

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Message 22 of 44

Unfortunately there is no substitute for floating the boat loaded as
expected ( skipper-motor-anchor-etc) inorder to measure the waterline. A
small float or dinghy can be used with the boat in it's slip to mark the
top of the boot stripe location which should be so placed to have the
bottom paint slightly above water as this greatly reduces weed and slime
growth.
Dick, ex M23, present NS26
ron and cathryn goodspeed wrote:
> Hello Wayne, Yes, I am assuming that the bottom of the keel is
> parallel to the DWL- Maybe the cockpit seat should be used to level
> the boat, I don't know what conventions marine architects use but many
> drawings of boats in general show the horizontals of keel and seat to
> be parallel to the DWL. Maybe Jerry or Bob have some better info on
> this? If not I'll just figure something out- besides, You can't see
> it from the cockpit anyway and with a new bottom I'll be going by so
> fast........ : -) .
>
> Ron Goodspeed
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>

Message 23 of 44

Message 24 of 44

Message 25 of 44

> This paragraph begs the question, "How do Jerry and Bob mark the waterl=
ine for
> new boats offered with boot stripes?" I have been only half paying att=
ention to this
> exchange because my boat has a factory boot stripe and I figure it's =
an infallible guide
> for bottom paint and new boot stripe paint, so how do the professionals
> do it, especially in a mold?
>
Hmmm. I can think of one way you could mark a waterline in a mold....
Assuming the mold is in two halves you could calk the seam, fill it up =
to the
proper level with water, and then mark it.
Somehow, though, I kind of doubt that's how it's done. :-) Perhaps Bob =
or
Jerry will enlighten us.
Tod

Message 26 of 44

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Message 30 of 44

Robert Eeg wrote:
>
> Hi group....
> We have taken an order for a brand new 1998 Montgomery 17 from a
> couple in Florida. (Ivory hull, Green sheer and boot stripe)
> Construction will start soon here in Southern California with
> Jerry Montgomery coming down to consult! With the hundreds of boats
> (maybe a thousand?) Jerry and I have built the last 20 some-odd years
> I think we can figure this one out! :-)
> We are going to build two Montgomery 17s at a time. The base price
> is $13,300. The trailer will be optional and also galvanized.
> Here is the question: Does anyone out there want to purchase the
> second Montgomery 17? (it will be beautiful!)(you can pick your color!)
> If your INTERESTED, please let me know.
> The 15 will be coming NEXT and JM will also be consulting us.
> (Its nice having Jerry around, Huh?)
> Thanks and Seas the Day
> Bob Nor'Sea Yachts (714)489-8227 Voicemail
> PS: If your not interested in buying a new
> Montgomery would you please put the word
> out about Montgomery_Boats being back in
> production! thanx.
Bob:
Go get em! I will pass the word. All the best.
Bob Fisher
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Message 31 of 44

Message 32 of 44

Message 33 of 44

Message 34 of 44

thought I'd pass this along in case anyone is trip planning...
I started the rendezvous with 28 gallons of water stowed under the v-berth. You can
just imagine where that put my boot stripe. (boot stripe? what boot stripe? I didn't
see any boot stripe. Did you see any boot stripe?). Add to that a couple of gallons
in the solar shower starting out makes about 30 gallons. Figure 14 days on the water
minus two days with access to shore showers leaves 12 days of usage. I returned
with a whopping 13 gallons (I didn't think I had that much left) which means I used
17 gallons in 12 days, or less than 1 1/2 gallons/day. I didn't drink much of it and we
ate out a fair amount, but I did use some to boil spaghetti noodles for a couple meals
and other, lighter cooking. The big use was showering. Question is, whether that was big
enough is something that can only be properly answered by those who may have been
downwind :-) Had I done more cooking and drank more of it then probably the result
would have been closer to 2 gallons/day consumption.
I didn't keep a tally of my usage so I was a bit surprised at how much I brought back.
gasoline used in that time period was 3 quarts per week with motoring mostly in calms.
Tod

Message 35 of 44

> This paragraph begs the question, "How do Jerry and Bob mark the waterline for
> new boats offered with boot stripes?" I have been only half paying attention to this
> exchange because my boat has a factory boot stripe and I figure it's an infallible guide
> for bottom paint and new boot stripe paint, so how do the professionals
> do it, especially in a mold?
>
Hmmm. I can think of one way you could mark a waterline in a mold....
Assuming the mold is in two halves you could calk the seam, fill it up to the
proper level with water, and then mark it.
Somehow, though, I kind of doubt that's how it's done. :-) Perhaps Bob or
Jerry will enlighten us.
Tod

Message 36 of 44

It seems all of these messages start "with mixed feelings" and that is true here...but, we've decided with two teenagers and the dog we need to sell both of the small boats and move to one bigger one. I'm not in a rush to sell the 15 but thought I would throw it out here before vacation and maybe have some delivery options. Here are the boat specs...

1986 M-15
Trailerite trailer w/spare
Honda 2 HP outboard (newer model) or Evinrude 3 HP 2 Cylinder (both ?)
Main & Jib both in good shape
Bimini Top (see thru shade cloth) rigged to sail with bimini up (matching colors)
Ivory with blue sheer and boot stripe
Whisker pole and all the usual gear
Lines led aft with some rigging upgrades
Custom mount for outboard on trailer tongue
Modified motor mount, etc. etc.

This boat has been in indoor storage all of it's life and has not been out for more years than I would like to admit. Except for the upgrades and color coded lines you could not tell this from a new model. Hull is perfect and shiny and ready to go with the mast mounts etc. for towing. Never been moored in water, no centerboard problems, Harken blocks, perfect interior, a nice boat.
If interested please respong ASAP, we are leaving this Thursday evening I-70 across the country to the Midwest, I-75 south to Florida, west across I-10 thru Texas back to the Southwest. That should put us within a few hundred miles of anyone in the country except the Northwest area. The motorhome has an empty hitch and with the V-10 the mileage can't get any worse than it already is. I would be happy to bring the boat along and deliver it for no charge if you are anywhere close to our travels (maybe even not so close if there is something interesting to see there).

Reply to this message or give me a call at (702) 458-8413 home or (702) 565-2333 office. I hate to use the other "M" word on this site, but the MacGregor 26 is also going if you know anyone that might be looking.
Thanks,
Steve
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Message 37 of 44

<000201c34ffe$1ac34c40$aab4510c@oemcomputer>
I'm interested! You don't say where you are (Arizona?)- or how much you want for the 15. I'm in the SF bay area (Walnut Creek).
Werner Pels
----- Original Message -----
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 8:03 PM
It seems all of these messages start "with mixed feelings" and that is true here...but, we've decided with two teenagers and the dog we need to sell both of the small boats and move to one bigger one. I'm not in a rush to sell the 15 but thought I would throw it out here before vacation and maybe have some delivery options. Here are the boat specs...
1986 M-15
Trailerite trailer w/spare
Honda 2 HP outboard (newer model) or Evinrude 3 HP 2 Cylinder (both ?)
Main & Jib both in good shape
Bimini Top (see thru shade cloth) rigged to sail with bimini up (matching colors)
Ivory with blue sheer and boot stripe
Whisker pole and all the usual gear
Lines led aft with some rigging upgrades
Custom mount for outboard on trailer tongue
Modified motor mount, etc. etc.
This boat has been in indoor storage all of it's life and has not been out for more years than I would like to admit. Except for the upgrades and color coded lines you could not tell this from a new model. Hull is perfect and shiny and ready to go with the mast mounts etc. for towing. Never been moored in water, no centerboard problems, Harken blocks, perfect interior, a nice boat.
If interested please respong ASAP, we are leaving this Thursday evening I-70 across the country to the Midwest, I-75 south to Florida, west across I-10 thru Texas back to the Southwest. That should put us within a few hundred miles of anyone in the country except the Northwest area. The motorhome has an empty hitch and with the V-10 the mileage can't get any worse than it already is. I would be happy to bring the boat along and deliver it for no charge if you are anywhere close to our travels (maybe even not so close if there is something interesting to see there).
Reply to this message or give me a call at (702) 458-8413 home or (702) 565-2333 office. I hate to use the other "M" word on this site, but the MacGregor 26 is also going if you know anyone that might be looking.
Thanks,
Steve
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Message 38 of 44

<000201c34ffe$1ac34c40$aab4510c@oemcomputer>
Steve,
Price on the M 15?
----- Original Message -----
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 10:03 PM
It seems all of these messages start "with mixed feelings" and that is true here...but, we've decided with two teenagers and the dog we need to sell both of the small boats and move to one bigger one. I'm not in a rush to sell the 15 but thought I would throw it out here before vacation and maybe have some delivery options. Here are the boat specs...
1986 M-15
Trailerite trailer w/spare
Honda 2 HP outboard (newer model) or Evinrude 3 HP 2 Cylinder (both ?)
Main & Jib both in good shape
Bimini Top (see thru shade cloth) rigged to sail with bimini up (matching colors)
Ivory with blue sheer and boot stripe
Whisker pole and all the usual gear
Lines led aft with some rigging upgrades
Custom mount for outboard on trailer tongue
Modified motor mount, etc. etc.
This boat has been in indoor storage all of it's life and has not been out for more years than I would like to admit. Except for the upgrades and color coded lines you could not tell this from a new model. Hull is perfect and shiny and ready to go with the mast mounts etc. for towing. Never been moored in water, no centerboard problems, Harken blocks, perfect interior, a nice boat.
If interested please respong ASAP, we are leaving this Thursday evening I-70 across the country to the Midwest, I-75 south to Florida, west across I-10 thru Texas back to the Southwest. That should put us within a few hundred miles of anyone in the country except the Northwest area. The motorhome has an empty hitch and with the V-10 the mileage can't get any worse than it already is. I would be happy to bring the boat along and deliver it for no charge if you are anywhere close to our travels (maybe even not so close if there is something interesting to see there).
Reply to this message or give me a call at (702) 458-8413 home or (702) 565-2333 office. I hate to use the other "M" word on this site, but the MacGregor 26 is also going if you know anyone that might be looking.
Thanks,
Steve
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Message 39 of 44

Bill,
I did the same project on Tullamore a couple years ago. I used Peel
Away Bottom Paint Stripper. It's safe on fiberglass and gel coat and is
available from West Marine (page 338 in the 2003 catalog). It's a messy,
slow, tedious job getting that old paint off though. The stuff smears on
like finger paint, you leave it there for a hour or two I believe,
covered with wax paper, and it softens the old paint so you can wipe,
scrape, rub, etc., etc., and eventually get the slimy paste off. It
won't be a pretty finish when you're done though. The old gel coat will
be stained and lines of the old paint will be visible in any old
scratches that they painted over. I had to repaint the hull below the
boot stripe. My boat lives on a trailer also, so I used VC High
Performance Epoxy paint which has worked out excellent. It is a very hard
finish, excellent for trailering, and has a Teflon component, which makes
it very fast, too. If you want to see pictures of mine, there are some
on the web site under Raise the Montgomery, Larry Yake's method. (clever
name, huh?) It made the boat look 100% better, especially when she's
heeled over! ;-)
Larry Yake
M17 #200
Tullamore
"In a power boat you get there faster.
In a sailboat you're already there."
On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 14:15:47 -0800 Bill Sylvester
writes:
> Endelig has had numerous different applications of bottom
> paint and
> she looks pretty shabby below the water line. Since she will be a
> trailer boat, we are planning to not have any paint on her hull.
> Paint strippers that I have found say "Don't use on
> fiberglass!" Is
> there a paint stripper or method to get the old paint off without
> dulling the jell-coat?
> She also has patches of mussel hairs that are proving very
> tough to
> remove.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> M-17 # 279
> Endelig
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>
>

Message 40 of 44

Larry,
Thanks for the suggestions. Tullamore does look beautiful. I have
found that there are a lot of dark (smoky looking) areas on the hull.
I am hoping that a fiberglass cleaner will help wash them out.
Bill
On Thursday, November 6, 2003, at 04:23 PM, Larry Yake wrote:
> Bill,
> I did the same project on Tullamore a couple years ago. I used Peel
> Away Bottom Paint Stripper. It's safe on fiberglass and gel coat and
> is
> available from West Marine (page 338 in the 2003 catalog). It's a
> messy,
> slow, tedious job getting that old paint off though. The stuff smears
> on
> like finger paint, you leave it there for a hour or two I believe,
> covered with wax paper, and it softens the old paint so you can wipe,
> scrape, rub, etc., etc., and eventually get the slimy paste off. It
> won't be a pretty finish when you're done though. The old gel coat will
> be stained and lines of the old paint will be visible in any old
> scratches that they painted over. I had to repaint the hull below the
> boot stripe. My boat lives on a trailer also, so I used VC High
> Performance Epoxy paint which has worked out excellent. It is a very
> hard
> finish, excellent for trailering, and has a Teflon component, which
> makes
> it very fast, too. If you want to see pictures of mine, there are some
> on the web site under Raise the Montgomery, Larry Yake's method.
> (clever
> name, huh?) It made the boat look 100% better, especially when she's
> heeled over! ;-)
>
> Larry Yake
> M17 #200
> Tullamore
> "In a power boat you get there faster.
> In a sailboat you're already there."
>
>
> On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 14:15:47 -0800 Bill Sylvester
> writes:
>> Endelig has had numerous different applications of bottom
>> paint and
>> she looks pretty shabby below the water line. Since she will be a
>> trailer boat, we are planning to not have any paint on her hull.
>> Paint strippers that I have found say "Don't use on
>> fiberglass!" Is
>> there a paint stripper or method to get the old paint off without
>> dulling the jell-coat?
>> She also has patches of mussel hairs that are proving very
>> tough to
>> remove.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> M-17 # 279
>> Endelig
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>

Message 41 of 44

Bill,
Those dark smoky areas could be bad news. Sounds like osmosis
blistering, where water gets through the gel coat and starts dissolving
the chemicals in the layers behind it. (I assume you're talking about
below the water line.) There's others on the list who have dealt with
that or you can get a technical bulletin from Interlux (#900D) that
describes the causes and how to fix it.
Good luck,
Larry
On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 16:48:00 -0800 Bill Sylvester
writes:
> Larry,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions. Tullamore does look beautiful.
> I have
> found that there are a lot of dark (smoky looking) areas on the
> hull.
> I am hoping that a fiberglass cleaner will help wash them out.
>
> Bill
>
> On Thursday, November 6, 2003, at 04:23 PM, Larry Yake wrote:
>
> > Bill,
> > I did the same project on Tullamore a couple years ago. I used
> Peel
> > Away Bottom Paint Stripper. It's safe on fiberglass and gel coat
> and
> > is
> > available from West Marine (page 338 in the 2003 catalog). It's a
>
> > messy,
> > slow, tedious job getting that old paint off though. The stuff
> smears
> > on
> > like finger paint, you leave it there for a hour or two I
> believe,
> > covered with wax paper, and it softens the old paint so you can
> wipe,
> > scrape, rub, etc., etc., and eventually get the slimy paste off.
> It
> > won't be a pretty finish when you're done though. The old gel coat
> will
> > be stained and lines of the old paint will be visible in any old
> > scratches that they painted over. I had to repaint the hull below
> the
> > boot stripe. My boat lives on a trailer also, so I used VC High
> > Performance Epoxy paint which has worked out excellent. It is a
> very
> > hard
> > finish, excellent for trailering, and has a Teflon component,
> which
> > makes
> > it very fast, too. If you want to see pictures of mine, there are
> some
> > on the web site under Raise the Montgomery, Larry Yake's method.
> > (clever
> > name, huh?) It made the boat look 100% better, especially when
> she's
> > heeled over! ;-)
> >
> > Larry Yake
> > M17 #200
> > Tullamore
> > "In a power boat you get there faster.
> > In a sailboat you're already there."
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 14:15:47 -0800 Bill Sylvester
>
> > writes:
> >> Endelig has had numerous different applications of
> bottom
> >> paint and
> >> she looks pretty shabby below the water line. Since she will be
> a
> >> trailer boat, we are planning to not have any paint on her hull.
> >> Paint strippers that I have found say "Don't use on
> >> fiberglass!" Is
> >> there a paint stripper or method to get the old paint off
> without
> >> dulling the jell-coat?
> >> She also has patches of mussel hairs that are proving
> very
> >> tough to
> >> remove.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Bill
> >>
> >> M-17 # 279
> >> Endelig
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
> >>
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>
>

Message 42 of 44

Message 43 of 44

On a 17 that has never been bottom painted,
without putting the boat in the water and marking it,
where can I find the measurements as to where boot stripe and bottom paint
should be.
Did the older 17 have the exactly same water line, or did that change when
the ballast changed in 1987 ( I think that was the year) ???

Message 44 of 44